A trip to the recently opened Kaya Restaurant & Lounge left Liz O’Reilly waxing lyrical.

Kaya is to be found on the rooftop of the GEO building next to the Gulf Hotel and offers what it describes as modern fusion of Mediterransian cuisine.

A swift ride up 40-plus floors in the elevator took us to the entranceway, which is decorated with gold coated sparkling bottles, their crystal stoppers reflecting the ambient lighting. More crystal is suspended from the dark-hued ceilings in eye-catching, sculpted mobiles, while, inside, there’s a very art deco feel with elegant geometric arches, plush velvet seating and more dark tones, offset by walls of windows.

We were introduced to Head Chef Ahmad Zaki and Jeffrey Santillan, Head Sushi Chef, who have experience with the likes of Nobu and Zuma in Dubai and have brought their highly experienced team with them. Both were delightfully welcoming and happy to chat about their signature dishes, which we were soon to try.

We started with Stracciatella (don’t be fooled, it’s on the menu as burrata but Chef Ahmad explained that stracciatella works better and the burrata supply here is not stable enough), an amazing combo, creamy but not too rich and totally benefitted by the addition of caramelised walnuts, which I’ve never had before but am now completely smitten by for the smoky sweetness they brought to the dish overall. This was a joint favourite with both myself and my dining companion, to which we kept returning throughout our meal. It’s served with lots of greens in mildly citrusy sisho pesto and yuzu miso which give a unique umami hint of both salt and savoury.

Our next starter was the steam bun burger – proudly emblazoned with Kaya, like a brand, across the top of the bread. The burger was juicy and the accompaniments made for an interesting mouthful.

A platter of sushi, sashimi and nigiri came next. The chefs explained that the tuna sashimi – which tasted beautifully fresh – comes from Spain and they have installed a minus-160º freezer to keep it that way. Both the sushi and nigiri sported a range of delicious toppings with Chef Jeffrey explaining that, at Kaya, they like to do things a little differently. The rice is served slightly warm, to offset the coldness of the fish, and the toppings are used to tease out the flavours.

Of the tuna nigiri topped with yuzu koshō, my dining companion declared “that felt like fun on my tongue”. I absolutely adored the sushi with scallop, which felt like the very best kind of comfort food, rich, but not too rich, tasty and with the sweetness of the shellfish beautifully complemented by the flavourful topping of spicy mayo and spring onions.

For mains, we chose the Lamb Rack from the Robata menu and Black Cod with Spicy Yuzu Miso. The lamb was tender, succulent and delicately pink inside with a gentle but flavoursome kick from the marinade of Gochujan (chilli) teriyaki.

The black cod, which has long been a favourite of mine, didn’t disappoint. It’s marinated for two days with spicy yuzu miso and then oven roasted. The delicate flesh literally separated under our chop sticks and the misu coating gave an almost floral, sweet and utterly satisfying tang. The dish comes with a dipping sauce but I was more than happy to just tuck into the cod (with a little bit of the aforementioned Strachiatella).

After the mains we took a break, to fully familiarise ourselves with the surroundings of the venue. Sophisticated and clublike in feel, Kaya boasts stages and podiums on which an everchanging roster of artists perform. From dancers to musicians, we were lucky enough to witness an unexpectedly wonderful operatic rendition of Andrea Boccelli’s famed Con Te Partiro – two favourites in one afternoon for me.

And, one important thing to know about Kaya is that, come the cooler weather, the whole roof retracts guaranteeing stunning views from the venue’s rooftop setting. Can’t wait to experience that. Returning to our table, it was time for dessert and to say ‘impressive’ would be a huge understatement.

First to arrive was one of the Kaya signatures, the Cigar Surprise. What can I tell you about this without giving away the surprise? Suffice to say, there is smoke and chocolate, it’s very impressive and if you’re a fan of wasabi with fruit, you should definitely go for this. OK, you’ll see the picture, so I can tell you, this is a perfectly recreated stogie made of chocolate with a nutty raspberry centre accompanied by a raspberry-wasabi sorbet. The quality and depth of flavour of the chocolate is really evident and its pairing with raspberry offers just the right sweet yet tart note to cut through the richness.

But the star of the show, and the deserved favourite of Chef Jeffrey’s clearly very discerning wife, was the Fromage Brulee with Red Fruits & Sakura. This is like a cheesecake but better, if that’s possible. The brulee itself is remarkably light and delicately flavoured but also creamy giving a textural treat, while the red berries provide a deliciously acidic contrast which explodes on the tongue and the Sakura – cherry blossom cream – imparted a subtly sweet, slightly almond-like flavour (not at all cherry tasting as you might expect). Spoonfuls of this left both my dining companion and myself in absolute bliss, which is quite some achievement when you consider the excellence of what had gone before.

I’m told, I missed out by not trying the Warm Matcha Pistachio Pudding – however, by this stage, there really was no further stomach space, which, happily, leaves me with a great reason to return.

I can safely say, an evening at Kaya promises a treat for both foodies and those who want to enjoy great entertainment, not to mention a really interesting bar selection. But, don’t take my word for it, go see for yourself. ✤

GO: CALL 1717 1722 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A BOOKING.