Liz O’Reilly discovered a fresh face and fresh flavours on a visit to Yamaz Greek restaurant.

I love the trip to Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea & Spa, heading down the long, empty road towards the citadel-like building always gives me a feeling of being on holiday. And, entering Yamaz certainly builds on that vibe. The interiors in pale blue and white with terracotta tiled floors whisk you straight to the Mediterranean.

Table settings with earthenware pots bearing clashing pink bougainvillea, bright blue glassware, pretty patterned plates and hanging lamps that resemble old-style wicker fishermen’s pots call to mind the Greek islands, while close to the ceiling an industrial-style installation that resembles the tentacle of a giant squid adds a touch of interest and a burst of fun.

But, make no mistake, here, the view is the real star. Glass walls on all sides reveal a vista of endless sea and sky, the sun bouncing off the small waves as seabirds put on a show. Visit at nighttime and gentle lanterns add to the ambience and, I have to admit, I have loved this place in its many guises since it opened in 2011.

And now, with a new man at the helm in the shape of GreekCypriot Chef Marios Philippou, I was eager to see how things are shaping up.

We started with three salads, the first of which, Xtenia with cucumber soup and scallop tartare, is one of the chef’s signature dishes, and it’s easy to see why. Served on a bed of ice, with dry ice billowing smoke for added drama, the sweetness and delicate texture of the raw scallop was perfectly balanced by the bright, crisp cucumber. The lightly, creamy soup rounded out the whole, with a sprinkling of microgreens and citrus slices making for a wonderfully refreshing, yet subtle bite.

Next came a bowl bursting with the flavours of Heirloom tomatoes, their skins bright red and deep purple imparting a visual treat to complement the rich, slightly sweet Manouri cheese mousse. A hint of grape syrup added deeper sweetness and a dusting of pinenuts brought crunch and earthy flavour.

The last of the cold starters was easily my favourite – the traditional Greek mezze or Alifes Platter. If, like me, you’re a fan of dips, then this is the one for you.

Velvety Tzatziki – creamy yoghurt with cucumber, garlic and dill – brought a burst of Mediterranean sunshine, familiar and utterly delicious. The Taramosalata, a classic fish paté, was literally flavours of the sea in a bowl, while Melinzanosalata is one I could go back for again and again since I just adore the sweet, charred flavour of perfectly grilled eggplant. Silken hummus and a selection of plump olives also featured alongside a new one for me, which became an immediate favourite, Tirokafteri. This spicy feta cream took on a pink hue from roasted red bell peppers with a kick of chilli paste bringing a lingering heat.

For hot appetisers, we started with Lamb Baklava – soft, juicy, slow-roasted meat in a crispy phyllo pastry shell with a light piping of pinkly pretty sumac yoghurt sauce to bring out the sweetness of the meat. This came as a happy surprise as I was expecting kofta meat, of which I am not a huge fan, so to encounter rich, earthy lamb, sinewy and tender and literally dissolving on the tongue, brought a real smile to my face.

Next came Feta Filo – fried barrel-aged feta cheese wrapped in phyllo pastry. I have to be honest and say this is not the most attractive looking dish on the menu but looks can surely be deceiving. The pastry was super crispy and made a satisfying crunch as we cracked through to the warm gooey cheese inside. The saltiness of the feta was perfectly offset by the topping of sweet tomato and chilli jam. The challenge of combining all the elements in one forkful was certainly worth the effort for that unique sensation of crisp, smooth and sweet in one unforgettable mouthful.

And, of course, you can’t go Greek without calamari. Small and sweet with not a hint of rubberiness, fried in an airy, light batter, so dry that it was still tasty and crunchy when we went back even after it had cooled.

Then came the mains. First up a trio of souvlaki skewers and it was gratifying to hear my Bahraini dining companion exclaim that not all grills are created equal!

Succulent pink chunks of steak were cooked just the right side of chewy for a flavourful bite, the marinade of garlic with oregano teasing out the delicate flavours of the beef. The lamb kofta was equally tasty and just fatty enough for the meat to boast that delicious telltale succulence without being greasy, the combination of herbs, onions and spices cutting through to release the sweetness of the lamb. But, for me, the star of the show was the chicken, perfectly grilled with a light char enhanced with hints of garlic, parsley, rosemary and citrus for a delightful flavour and texture combination.

The surprise standout of the day was the Vegetarian Moussaka, which was an unexpected hit with all of us confirmed carnivores. The thin slices of potato rendered the dish a light and savoury triumph, crunchy green courgettes bringing sweetness, eggplant adding rich earthy flavour and perfectly matching the creamy, cheesy sauce that bubbled in browned goodness atop the dish. I would definitely order this again in a heartbeat.

Then it was time for dessert and, of course, we were treated to the Mykonos Karavi – a perfectly egg-shaped chocolate shell encasing all manner of sweet goodness from light, fluffy sponge to chocolate fondant, hazelnut praline, chocolate Chantilly and brownie cubes. My dining companion smashed the shell with a satisfying crack and the table fell silent as we tucked in making sure to fill our spoons with a little bit of each filling for an amazingly decadent mouthful. By contrast, the second signature dessert – a new addition to the menu – the Glykoterole was described by Chef Marios as a Greek take on the traditional profiterole. More refined and simpler, the paper-light choux pastry was stuffed with pistachio praline and mastiha Chantilly bringing an understated elegance to conclude our Greek feast.

As the afternoon drew to a close, we ordered coffees in anticipation of the always gorgeous Zallaq sunset. It didn’t disappoint and nor did Yamaz. From the attentive service to the excellent fare, I’ve already booked a return visit to sample more of Chef Marios’ innovations. ✤

GO: CALL 3330 0087 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.