Liz O’Reilly discovered elegantly rendered flavours in atmospheric surroundings on a visit to Bosporus.

Bosporus Turkish restaurant is a large space upstairs in Marassi Galleria. But, despite being in a mall, one must bear in mind that this is Bahrain’s newest and most elegant and upmarket shopping destination and on the way to the eatery, you will pass some seriously impressive names.

Once inside the bright and airy dining area, the seating is comfortable with plush velvet-upholstered chairs inviting diners to linger over small glasses of traditional mint tea, while mosaicked columns with a blue background call to mind the classic blue and white colours of the Turkish capital.

One full wall is taken up with a tile motif of traditional Turkish boats on the Bosphorus, the famous strait that splits Istanbul between Asia and Europe. Another wall features old black-and-white images of the waterway from many years ago evoking an air of gentle nostalgia.

Muted colours on the walls and furnishings give a restful feel and, on one side, a window wall looks out onto a pretty terrace, which boasts stunning ocean views and will be an amazing place to dine or enjoy hookah, once the weather cools.

The staff made us feel welcome and, in no time at all, our dishes started to arrive. The signature starter was delicious and visually enticing presented on a silver coloured, crescent-shaped serving dish with an attached breadbasket. A selection of cold mezzes with a big puffy Turkish bread featured salad with Turkish green olives, tomato and parsley; silken hummus and moutabel; aci ezme – a new one for me – spicy pepper paste with tomato; cacik, creamy yoghurt with cucumber, mint and garlic; muhammara and, my all-time favourite, babaganush – smoky, sweet and utterly fabulous.

Each and every dip proved to be a perfect representation of its kind, flavourful, rich and offering a wonderful combination of textures and tastes. The bread was fluffy and light, topped with toasted seeds, and its presentation in a perfectly puffed-up oval, its top crispy and base fluffy, made for a great start to our experience.

Next came the Bosporus Signature Salad with salty Tulum cheese, chopped walnuts, mixed leaves, tomatoes, pomegranate seeds and sultanas. This was joyous, like a taste of country freshness with its mixed leaves, the sharp, salty taste of the traditional goat milk cheese, that’s ripened in a goatskin casing, cutting through the sweetness of the sultanas and perfectly complemented by the smokiness of the walnuts.

Our final starter was the Mini Lahmacun – small oven-baked Turkish flatbreads topped with minced lamb, tomatoes and peppers. I must admit that I’m not a huge fan of minced meats but the addition of raw onion and a generous squeeze of lovely sharp lemon gave this a wonderful depth of flavour, bringing out the juiciness of the meat and the herbs and spices used in its preparation.

For mains, we started with the mixed grill – which was the perfect size for one or two diners, so I didn’t feel overwhelmed with meat, as is frequently the case.

Boasting skewers of chicken breast and lamb shish alongside two types of kebab, Adana and Urfa (spicy and regular), and a melting lamb chop, every bite was flavourful, the meat soft and yielding. The Adana kebab was a particular favourite at our table, its blend of spices imparting a delicious heat that danced across the palate, perfectly complementing the tender meat, while the chicken was delightfully moist.

Alongside the grill, we enjoyed a serving of bulgur which came in a lightly spiced tomato and herb sauce with roasted chickpeas mixed in. The difference between this and regular rice was really distinct both in terms of texture and the amount of flavour it absorbs from the cooking process. The earthy, nutty piquancy provided the perfect foil to the rich meats.

The Beef Iskender Kebab, which followed, comprised slowly roasted beef doner meat served with Iskender and white sauce – described to us as being like a beef shawarma. The meat was flavourful, the fat content giving a greasy succulence and the sauces drawing forth a slightly gamey elegance.

Our final main course was the Testi Kebab, which made a show-style appearance at the table. Cooked in a clay pot topped with bread, this comforting stew of beef tenderloin with plentiful colourful vegetables in Iskender sauce was served amid billowing smoke as the pot was upended onto a hot skillet, leaving us to dig happily into the contents. The meat was mouth-wateringly rich and the vegetables had absorbed all the flavour of the aromatic tomato sauce. We also had some kibbeh alongside, which were delicious, their crispy coating and yielding tasty centre absolutely perfect.

To finish, we had a selection of traditional Turkish sweets, including Sarma Baklava, handmade phyllo pastry with sugar syrup and pistachio, walnut baklava and Sobiet Baklava and a traditional slice with Turkish ice cream. I loved the heavy sweetness of these desserts but you can only eat a tiny bit, which is no bad thing.

Alongside, we were served a selection of drinks, including homemade Ayran – yoghurt, salt and water served in a traditional metal tankard – and several fresh juices. My favourite was an amazing strawberry slushy concoction, which definitely shouldn’t be missed.

As our visit came to an end, we promised to return to try the rest of the extensive menu and I will certainly be going back for another helping of the delicious mixed appetisers. I highly recommend you give them a try. ✤

GO: FOLLOW @THEBOSPORUSBH FOR MORE INFORMATION.