A mix of Levantine and Andalusian cuisines makes for an interesting menu, as Liz O’Reilly discovered on a visit to Alusia at City Centre Bahrain.

Alusia is found on the top floor of City Centre Bahrain, close to the cinema. And being among a number of other eateries, I knew it would need to be pretty special to stand out. I need not have worried. Once inside, the design quickly brings the atmosphere and strategic placement of internal columns, trees and greenery mostly cloaks the outside.

Ochre-painted walls bring a definite Mediterranean feel enhanced by citrus trees and lots of foliage. One wall reveals an impressive tile mosaic of an olive tree while another shows an avenue of painted trees stretching away into the distance, feeling almost as if you’re in an Andalusian garden rather than Bahrain’s largest shopping centre.

Seating comes in a variety of forms, from comfy banquettes strewn with plump olive- or lemon-patterned cushions to marble-topped tables lit by tasselled, floral hanging lamps. Comfortable, deeply cushioned chairs pick up the accents of the lamps, while rounded booths are also available for a little more privacy. Mosaic work on some tables and the ceiling gives added interest, alongside a series of deep ceiling vaults and columns that add a sense of grandeur to the space.

A tile-bedecked open oven allowed a glimpse of the chefs preparing all manner of dough- and pastry-based goodies, and the aroma rising from its depths immediately set our mouths watering.

We were quickly seated and a succession of dishes began to arrive, the first of which was the Alusia Fattoush – quite a departure from the usual lettuce and cucumber mix. There was still plenty of greenery and crispy fried pitta in golden strands, but the addition of silky avocado chunks and fat, crunchy asparagus brought added richness and textural contrast. The dressing, featuring pomegranate molasses, was also very good – deep, sweet, yet lightly tart, perfect to cut through the richness of the avocado.

A serving of velvety hummus – silky smooth and reassuringly familiar – came next, accompanied by Muhammara which proved a big hit at the table due to a little extra something. A hint of chilli dropped into the mix alongside smoky walnuts, red bell peppers, creamy tahina and pomegranate molasses. Topped by sliced pistachios, the gentle heat alongside the earthy depth of the walnuts, transformed a regular dip into something much more complex that we went back to time and again throughout the meal.

For a sense of occasion, Sautéed Gambas arrived on a hot skillet in bubbling olive oil, giving off an enticing aroma of garlic before we even got to see them. The meat was perfectly cooked, firm and juicy with a light heat from sliver-thin slices of bright red chilli and bright, tangy parsley. I could have eaten just this and left satisfied.

Sfiha came as small slices of puffy, blistered flat bread topped with minced meat. I don’t usually go for minced meat but this was good quality, tasty and not greasy at all, plus the mix of onions, tomatoes and pinenuts coupled with the chewy charred bread gave it a lovely flavour/texture combination.

The chicken skewer arrived looking impressive on an upright rod, accompanied by French fries and a seriously garlicky cream sauce – tender and tasty, the light char from the grill gave way to a juicy centre, both flavour and presentation making this feel like a special treat.

The place was beginning to fill up with groups and families chatting and laughing over late lunch and mid-afternoon snacks when, already over-stuffed, we took a break to check out the drinks menu. It includes several interesting mocktails and we decided on a jug of ruby red Sangria. Its fruity mix of red grape juice, orange and cranberry brought a distinctly holiday flavour to the table as we joined in the chatter.

Next up, Oriental Rice with Lamb was unexpected. Not just superbly tasty, I found it surprisingly light for a meat dish of such substance. The spiced aromatic rice was lightly seasoned – enough to excite but not overwhelm – and the lamb, generous sizeable chunks, literally fell apart at the touch of a fork, separating into tender flakes that melted on the tongue. The side dish of fresh cucumber and yoghurt was a welcome, though not really necessary, addition. Truly a Levantine staple and comfort on a plate.

We couldn’t complete the savoury selection without trying the house speciality of paella and we went for the seafood version – bomba rice with tiger prawns, shrimp, baby squid and clams seasoned with Spanish saffron and Andalusian olive oil. The huge prawns were sweet, slightly earthy and brought a definite flavour of the sea, enhanced by the briny prawns and lightly nutty squid. The bomba rice was fat and tender having absorbed the saffron stock for a rich, bold mouthful. Honestly, I barely had space for more than a spoonful, but it was delightfully memorable and worth a return visit.

Lastly, the desserts didn’t disappoint. The Muhalabiya was given a twist, the traditional creamy, milk pudding getting a rich topping of mango puree that added an additional layer of indulgence. And the kunafa came in a burst of contrast, the salty, tangy cheese melting into strings as I cut through the crisply fried kataifi dough. Smothered in sugar syrup, it was one of my favourite dishes of the day and the perfect end to our combination feast.

We rounded out our visit with teas, coffees and more of that yummy Sangria as the afternoon drifted to early evening. The attentive staff kept an eye on us, without ever being intrusive and, when the time came to leave, it really felt as if we’d experienced a Mediterranean treat on a weekday afternoon.

As an aside, I should also mention that, though it’s not what we were there for, Alusia has just introduced a series of breakfast platters. I sneaked a bite of the Spanish omelette and grilled halloumi, and I definitely feel a weekend visit coming on to try some more of the menu. Safe to say, I’ll be back.

GO: CALL 1330 0702 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.