Liz O’Reilly headed to the recently opened Brasero Atlántico to discover what all the fuss is about.

Since Brasero Atlántico opened its doors at Sheraton Bahrain Hotel a little over a month ago, social media has been abuzz with praise. I couldn’t wait to try it for myself and, I’ll say straight off, I was not disappointed.

Found, via a dedicated lift, on the hotel’s expansive rooftop, the place is one neat discovery after another, not the least of which is the ship-shaped bar and fully open kitchen that’s the first thing you see as you walk in.

Behind its counters, you’re met with a full team of busy, white-jacketed chefs from all corners of the Earth, under the watchful eye of Executive Chef James Martin, and a seriously impressive charcoal grill that looks like a giant fire pit burning brightly. An indication that here, meat is taken very seriously indeed.

Many of the exterior walls are glass, affording breathtaking views over the city’s glittering lights, while, on the internal walls, you’ll spot line drawn images of a sea monster – Brasero’s much-loved mascot. Certainly eye-catching and definitely a conversation point, General Manager Rodrigo Carvalho told us the restaurant’s whole ethos is built around the ocean and they wanted to honour that by creating their own sea creature.

In fact, the sea monster is so much a part of the team that it features on the plates and napkins (all in the delicate blue of the Argentinian flag) and there’s even an artist construct of a realistic, giant sea monster skeleton encased in glass on the terrace, both funky and atmospheric in the shadows of a windy evening – Jurassic Park anyone?

From industrial-style ceilings to a range of comfortable, plush seating and an extensive open cellar, it’s clear a great deal of thought has gone into the décor. And I was particularly happy to spot proper, old-school decks with a collection of vinyl behind the bar – you really can’t be too careful about your music which, on our visit, was a mix of laid-back contemporary and jazzy classics. They say it’s all about location, location, location. But I’d argue that atmosphere, atmosphere, atmosphere is equally important. On this, Brasero Atlántico delivers, in spades.

But, what’s a restaurant without food? And, after an extended tour, we were hungry and ready to dive into the selections suggested by Chef James and Rodrigo, all of which are served sharing style. First to the table are Las Empanadas Al Horno – a trio of traditional pastry parcels stuffed with ossobuco, Pascualina de Spinach with Bechamel and mackerel. The meat version is divine, the flesh slow-cooked for ultimate flavour and so tender it barely needs chewing, while still retaining every ounce of flavour. The pastry on the mackerel version is surprising, flakier and topped with sugar crystals, presenting an interesting contrast with the rich, slightly salty tang of the fish.

But the favourite at our table is definitely the classic Pascualina de Spinach, the pastry glistening before we cut in to reveal the centre of rich earthy greens delectably mixed with the light, sweet hints of ricotta. The pastry is crumbly and this feels like a real taste of home cooking.

The Melon & Cecina de Leon, smoked cured beef with honeydew and cantaloupe melon, is one of the night’s shining stars (though, it has serious competition). The beef is rich and toothsome with a depth of flavour and that has my dining companions fighting for the last slice of an extremely generous portion. The melon is the perfect accompaniment but I really loved the bright green, oily pesto which added an extra dimension to the already sublime beef cuts.

Pizza Porteña is a Brasero signature, not surprising since it’s a cultural icon in Buenos Aires. The Fugazza version we were served boasted a rich, thick doughy base liberally topped with lashings of creamy mozzarella and loads of onions, an inclusion credited to Argentina’s history of immigration. Deeply comforting, this pizza is like a hug on a plate but, be warned, limit yourself if you’re planning to eat anything else on your visit, it really is a whole meal by itself.

A selection of pastas has been added since the opening and, though I’m slightly hesitant after a little too much of that wonderful pizza, Rodrigo assures me ‘this is not your average spaghetti Bolognese, you simply have to try it’. With a recommendation like that, how could I refuse?

He’s not wrong. The Homemade Corn Cappelleti with caramelised corn and chorizo are a revelation. Hat-shaped, stuffed pasta parcels bursting with creamy, herby goodness accompanied by glowing yellow kernels of corn and tasty morsels of lightly spicy sausage. The tastes and textures are a treat in the mouth and I honestly don’t want to share.

The Five Cheese and Truffle Ravioli is equally impressive, the al dente dough presenting the perfect foil to the creamy cheesy interior and the rich, pungency of the fungi. This brings to mind early mornings truffle hunting in the forest as a gentle mist rises. I’m glad I took Rodrigo’s advice.

We finish our savoury selection with the Daily Catch, which is seabass, and, of course, a steak. Brasero Atlántico is determinedly not a steakhouse, that’s clear from the oceanic emphasis. But, you simply don’t visit Argentina without eating steak. It would be almost sinful!

I can honestly say, the seabass was one of the best I’ve tasted, and, given my job, that’s quite a claim. Delicately sweet, its skin perfectly crispy, the flesh was just cooked enough to stave off that slightly watery texture so common in the less meaty fish. Flaky and flavoursome, it was another contender for the night’s favourite dish.

And the steak, perhaps unsurprisingly, was sublime. Cooked to a uniform, perfect medium rare, the juices flowing gently, the mouthfeel was buttery and tender. The flavour spoke romantically of wide-open prairies; earthy, rich and savoury, while at the same time succulently sweet. Despite being fully replete, we were all powerless to resist and it was gone in minutes.

We tried two desserts. The Vigilante, a soft, crumbling cheese panna cotta with a centre of creamed sweet potato jelly, put on quite a show. Cut open at the table, it kind of resembled a boiled egg with a rich, yellow yolk but the piquancy of the sweet potato coupled with the texture of the panna cotta soon dispelled that myth.

Meanwhile, the Chocotorta – flexi chocolate mousse with dulce de leche ice cream and cocoa dust – proved, once again, that the dessert stomach is a thing. Richly dark, sweet with a hint of the bitterness that comes from high-grade chocolate, we couldn’t get enough.

From the décor to the music and from the attentive service to the amazing food, Brasero Atlántico more than lived up to the hype.

It’s safe to say that whimsical sea monster has a new best friend. He’ll definitely be seeing more of me. ✤

GO: CALL 3888 5482 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.