The latest collection from QASIMI, the London-based label with Middle Eastern heritage, draws inspiration from the work of Sudanese artist Kamala Ibrahim Ishaq.

Having worked with Kamala on many occasions, this time the brand chose to use her prints in conversation with their own silhouettes and it’s hoped the SS24 collection will bring awareness to the current situation in Sudan and show QASIMI’s support for those affected.

1984’s Women in Crystal Cubes acts as the starting point for the collection, the centre of everything, alongside later works like My Plant, Blues for the Martyrs and Composition. “My life is full of folktales and legends – art comes from thoughts and memories,” says Kamala.

The artist’s potent words are mirrored by QASIMI’s earthly colour palette, rooted in the hues of the sun, sand and sky. Light blues, bright whites, bark browns and zingy yellows are grounded by shades of concrete grey, white lead and black.

Offering an artisanal blend of modernity and classicism, SS24 exercises two concepts: the first being beading and transparency, with the second centring around portraits and embroidery. New techniques like silk printing and embroidery are embraced this season, while the art of flou permeates both menswear and womenswear, juxtaposing cotton tailoring, technical wools and lightweight cotton with floaty layers of printed silk and organic poplin.

Building on the foundation blocks of QASIMI’s ‘Permanent’ collection, this offering fuses raw-edged sweatshirts and denim blazers with organza coats and printed silks. Cubic embellishment acts as another avenue for play, as clear embroidery comes in the form of strung-together cubic beads adorning tops and skirts. The rich oils of 2016’s Composition become portrait prints across fleece and jersey, with Kamala’s cubes transformed into physical manifestations of transparency and sculpture.

SS24 is an homage to the defining stories of Kamala Ibrahim Ishaq, with her visceral works inspiring a unique exploration of optimism and defiance. ✤