Liz O’Reilly discovered a veritable cornucopia of fishy flavours on a trip to the Seafood Night at Mövenpick Hotel Bahrain.

I should confess that the Mövenpick has always been something of a favourite. I enjoy the atmosphere of understated elegance, the warm and genuine welcome and I’m a big fan of the spa. But none of that was the reason for my most recent visit. I was there to check out the Seafood Night and, spoiler alert, it delivered, in spades.

On arrival, I was interested to see the latest updates to Silk’s Restaurant. Pale walls adorned with large golden dragée artworks give a feeling of airiness to an already expansive space, broken up by tall circular columns whose thin, gold stripe detailing is mirrored in the flooring. Numerous plants add a touch of greenery and extra character, and an ornamental fence separates a glass-walled terrace style seating area where yet more greenery hangs from the ceiling, highlighting a gorgeous living wall.

Seating is abundant and comfortable with deeply padded chairs and banquets arranged around everything from intimate two-person spaces to a table set for 16.

We quickly found our spot and headed over to check out the buffet. My first thought was ‘are there any fish left in the sea?’ my second, that I would surely have to come back. I love seafood and there was no way I could possibly try everything in one evening! While I was busy feasting my eyes, my dining companions had already started with a plate of oysters, served on the half shell and delicately briny, their flesh smooth and silky, the perfect start to any evening of seafood indulgence.

Next up, we all sampled the Tom Yum Talay – always my ‘go-to’ if it’s on the menu. Smooth, creamy and deeply umami, it teemed with rich chunks of seafood, shrimps bobbing in the bright sauce which brought a gentle heat that built with each successive spoonful.

At the sushi station, I was, once again, in awe of the sheer variety. At least seven different types of rolls tempted, alongside glistening fresh nigiri of white fish and shrimps, tender pink tuna and salmon sashimi and big bowls of wasabi and ginger promising a fiery hit to complement the gentle oceanic flavours.

I happily chose neatly cut squares of deep pink tuna. Lightly seared at the edges, the rich fatty flesh was fresh and flavourful. I had to stop myself going back for more.

The neighbouring poached seafood station offered crab legs, several different types of shellfish, plump, pink shrimp and more, with plenty of sauces to choose from.

The salad section was calling with its glowing dishes of green leaves, fresh crunchy vegetables and, true to the evening’s theme, yet more seafood. Avocado hummus boasted chunky nuggets of grilled shrimp, salmon Niçoise teemed with green peas and curly frisée, baby octopus nestled alongside juicy plum tomatoes and the 1970s’ favourite – prawn cocktail.

I went for a surprising option, one I’ve not seen before – the homecured seabass pastrami. I’m always up for trying something new and I loved how the traditional pastrami herb rub, earthy and warm, brought out the delicate sweetness of the fish.

Before heading to the mains in their gleaming silver tureens, I stopped by a station which quickly became one of my favourites. Little nibbles – calamari and prawns deep fried to golden perfection; shrimp tempura, crispy and moreish; fish shawarma, offering a taste of Bahrain’s favourite street food; and a selection of soft, delicate gyoza and shumai, their bottoms crunchy brown, fillings of vegetables, shrimp and chicken, each deeply savoury and bursting with their own unique textures and flavours.

To be honest, I was close to replete and could have stopped at this point. But those silver dishes could not be ignored, not to mention the fish market-style section where you can choose from a vast array of oceanic treasures and have it cooked to your liking. Lifting the lids of each shining dome, I was excited to see each new offering basking within. From Sweet & Sour Seafood and Lobster Mac & Cheese to Mediterranean Grilled Seabream and Baked Red Snapper Oriental Style, there was something to suit every taste.

For me, there was only one obvious choice, the Prawn Massaman Curry. Massaman is usually made with beef and I was intrigued to discover how it would translate to this seafood option. I found it a bit lighter (just as well considering the amount I’d already managed to consume), slightly sweet and creamy with the gentle heat of the garlic and ginger in the paste drawing out the other flavours. A briny tang from the fish sauce played beautifully with a light zing – my guess is tamarind – to create a dish of warm Thai welcome that I could have returned to many times over.

Saving, possibly, the best for last in the savoury selection, I headed to the market counter where a huge selection of seafood glowed fresh and bright on a bed of ice. Fish and shrimp skewers sat alongside barracuda, red snapper, safi, gorgofan, sea bream, lobster tails and more.

Elsewhere a selection of shellfish, such as mussels, clams, peeled shrimp and calamari waited to be cooked alongside pasta and sauces on an open flame.

I chose fish and shrimp skewers – each cooked to perfection, lightly spiced, the flavours complementing rather than overwhelming the delicate fish, the flesh toothy and firm – quite an accomplishment on the grill. I also had lobster, almost naked with just a squeeze of lemon. I can honestly say, it was one of the best renditions of this dish I have had in a long time. The succulent flesh held a gentle char from the grill, giving a delicate smoky flavour to the rich, sweet meat. I confess, on this one, I did go back for seconds and would probably have tried to fit in thirds, had I not been mindful of the desserts!

So often with theme nights, the sweet selection feels like an afterthought. But not so here. Once again, a generous array had my taste buds dancing. Banana toffee cake, cocoa ivory mousse, honey cake, a caramalised apple creation with cinnamon mousse, red velvet, pistachio strawberry cake and more, much more.

As always, I went for the Crème Brûlée – I can never resist when I see that glistening burnt sugar lid and the thrill of cracking through to the creamy vanilla cream beneath just never gets old. A perfect end to an evening of flavour and abundance. A selection so wide, it’s been impossible to include everything here, and I should mention there are meat and chicken options too. I’ll certainly be going back to try the many delicious nibbles I missed this time round. ✤

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