Liz O’Reilly indulged her inner meat lover on a visit to the recently opened Tenderloin & Co. at Marassi Galleria.

Living, as I do, in the back of beyond, it’s always good to have an excuse to head across town to the Kingdom’s swankiest mall. So, when I was invited to check out the newly opened Tenderloin & Co., which lies in the shopping destination’s fashion area, I didn’t need asking twice.

Surrounded by high-end brands, this Saudi-born American concept blends right in, with its classy deep plum walls and minimalist décor. Tables formed of single chunks of solid wood paired with wishbone-style chairs give a sense of subtle style, while the darkly hued logo tattooed on a feature wall beckons quietly, rather than shouting.

Restaurant manager John greeted us warmly on arrival and, before too long, our first dish appeared, the Grilled Corn Salad. Abundant peppery, green rocca leaves cradled plump, juicy tomatoes dotted with delightfully creamy feta cheese. The depth of the dairy beautifully complemented the smoky char of the grilled corn, with all the flavours unified by a light, sweet honey vinaigrette – a delicious surprise for the palate.

Mari Bites, the first of our appetisers, were cubes of super succulent steak, melt-in-the-mouth soft and oh so tasty. Mildly sweet from a gentle marinade, they were served with Tenderloin’s own sauce, which is dark, rich and slightly sparky with generous hints of pepper – a winning combination.

The Buffalo Wings, usually a humble fast food, were a huge hit at our table. Cooked in maple buffalo sauce, the rich, aromatic amber coating had our taste buds popping before they even reached the table. Crispy and piping hot, we quickly pulled them apart to reveal the tender flesh within. Served with homemade ranch sauce, they were piquant and moreish and the portion was more than enough to share.

Steak Bites came next: thick, juicy tenderloin rounds wrapped in beef bacon and served with crunchy toast squares. The meat, delicately pink, firm and tender, was perfectly complemented by the sauce – a creamy combination of mushroom and tomato with tiny bits of beef bacon adding a subtle smokiness for an overall taste sensation we couldn’t get enough of.

As well as its many meat cuts, Tenderloin also offers a range of burgers and sandwiches but, mindful of the mains to come, we chose just one to share, the Grilled Burger. 

Simple and almost elegant, it was a particular hit with one of my companions. Served in a soft brioche bun, we loved the presentation, sliced in half and encased in a silver paper wrapping. The succulent minced meat patty was accompanied by caramelised onions and topped with American cheese for the perfect ‘down home’ flavourful feast.

First up on the main courses was The Ribs – exactly that. A large beef rib in barbecue sauce, slow cooked to a level of tenderness that it literally fell off the bone in one complete piece at just the merest nudge of a knife.

This meat, unlike the bites served earlier, was dense in texture and rich in earthy flavour. The theatre of sliding the meat from the bone making it seem all the more tasty and special.

Next, we sampled Creamy Lemon Chicken – a crispy thin chicken steak with a light coat of seasoning and a topping of creamy lemon sauce over lush mashed potatoes.

Then came what, for me, was definitely the pièce de resistance – Tenderloin Skillet. A house speciality with good reason, this 230g tenderloin steak is fried in a pan with garlic butter and herbs and served with pepper sauce and southwest fries, which were a triumph all by themselves. A generous topping of roasted garlic chips became one of my favourite things of the whole meal – perfect with the sauce or if, like me, you love garlic, great just on their own or adding a little extra smoky bite to the meat.

Despite being more than replete, we finished with two desserts. An exquisite chocolate brownie topped with salted caramel, which really hit the spot, and superbly sweet reminder of childhood: the sticky date pudding with custard, vanilla ice cream and honeycomb. Fluffy sponge yielded to our spoons as we greedily lapped it up in almost total silence – something that doesn’t happen often and a sure sign of a winner.

Throughout our meal we tried a selection of imaginative mocktails – my favourite was the Mojito Razz with fresh raspberry, lime and mint with sugar and soda – deliciously refreshing and a great mix of tart and sweet – I’ll be trying to recreate this at home.

We took our time after the last dish, letting our food digest and watching the world go by. I love people watching and this is an ideal spot to indulge as the life of the mall goes on around you. From the enthusiastic welcome to the service – attentive without being overwhelming – our afternoon at Tenderloin & Co. couldn’t have been better and I’m already planning a return visit for more of those amazing chicken wings. D

GO: CALL 3875 0040 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.