Liz O’Reilly discovered an extensive menu, a passionate chef and convivial surroundings on a visit to Flames & Flavours at The Art Hotel & Resort, Amwaj Islands.

It had been a while since my last visit to The Art but the landmark canopy and spacious lobby were as welcoming as ever, with friendly staff happy to direct me to the restaurant for today’s feast.

Primarily known as a steak house, Flames & Flavours has an extensive menu, from premium cuts to chef’s specials, all served up in a sophisticated ambience with low lighting and a moody colour scheme giving a contemporary feel. The star of the show though, is the view; a stroll onto the expansive terrace and the eye is immediately drawn to the yachts bobbing on the waves at Amwaj Marina – a luxe vista for a lunchtime visit.

Without further ado, our food started to arrive with the signature Flames Battered Shrimp being first to the table. Now, this is a common dish but also a good gauge of a kitchen and, at Flames, it told us all we needed to know. The crunchy coating quickly yielded to sweet shrimp, a perfect combination elevated by the tangy, garlicky heat of sriracha tempered by sour cream mayo. We were certainly off to a good start with a satisfying mouthful.

Maryland Crab Cakes brought a delicate flavour with chunks of tender meat complemented by a light dusting of herbs, all brought together by a smoky chipotle sauce and fresh greens. Delicious. Chef Theo told us he wouldn’t normally serve the next dish, but he had sourced some seriously good buffalo mozzarella. The contrast of the creamy cheese and plump, juicy olives, cut through by the sweet tartness of Heirloom tomatoes, wrapped in high-quality olive oil, was a definite taste of the Med, especially with that gorgeous view.

Our final appetiser was a sure favourite and beautifully presented. Chunks of firm, flavourful avocado mixed with diced prawns: creamy, slightly gooey and oh, so tasty, topped with plump, juicy whole prawns. This was the one we kept going back to – the classic, light heat of the Louie sauce forming an excellent background to the milder main flavours.

To give our tums a break, we were served a selection of mocktails – I particularly loved the Strawberry Punch, sweet but with a lingering tartness cutting through – alongside a bright, light salad of rocket, radish, quinoa and tomatoes, with edible flowers adding the pretty and jewel like pomegranate arils to bring a little sweetness.

Then it was time for the main event and our mouths watered gently as Black Angus tenderloin was served. Succulent and tender, the light char gave the flesh a smoky contrast, with the centre deeply pink and oozing juices. Every mouthful was a triumph and both myself and my dining companion were rendered momentarily silent – something that doesn’t happen often!

Chilean Seabass followed for a lighter but no less satisfying bite. Chunky, buttery flesh, cooked so it just melted on the tongue, came encased in a crispy, salty skin for a perfect mix of textures and flavours. I’d ordered a side of fresh asparagus, which arrived bright and crunchy, sautéed in olive oil with a light dusting of salt. The earthy, nutty flavour was distinctly moreish and presented the perfect complement to the delicateness of the fish.

Braised lamb shank brought the comfort element to the table, the lightly gamey meat literally falling apart at the touch of a fork and nestled in a gorgeously rich jus reduction formed from the exceptionally slow cooking of the joint. Accompanied by classic creamy mashed potatoes and root vegetables, this was one of my favourite dishes of the day, simple but at the same time spectacular, not trying too hard but achieving everything a good main should, seemingly effortlessly

Chef Theodor insisted we also try The Ultimate Beef Burger, 200 grams of Black Angus, which, I have to confess, I was not looking forward to. I’m not a huge burger fan, but this was surprisingly good and tasty. Topped with stringy, melty Monterey Jack, it was honestly a complete unit! Caramelised onion added sweetness and it felt clean, not, like some, swimming in sauce, with the flavour of the meat able to take centre stage.

By this stage, we were more than replete but dessert called and we answered – in the interests of research, of course.

The Burned Basque cheesecake was rich and velvety, the slightly bitter char of the crust saving the rich, creamy middle from over sweetness, with a topping of red fruits cutting through to keep everything fresh.

Tarte tatin, the traditional caramelised apple tart, looked almost too pretty to eat, with a side of decadence in the shape of gold leaf-topped red and blue berries. Deliciously lush with a dollop of cream, the texture clung gently to our tongues, lingering sweetly for the perfect end to our experience.

From the helpful servers to Chef Theo’s personal menu pointers and the high quality of everything we sampled, our visit to Flames & Flavours was a triumph and I’ll definitely be going back for more. ✤

GO: CALL 1600 0111 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.