Wolfgang Puck’s Cut empire has increased its global footprint with a new addition at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay. We’re not shy about tearing into steak – especially when it’s butter smooth.
Bahrain is awash in steakhouses. It’s a labour of love trying to find the ideal beef. The people of the isle love a perfectly scorched hunk of steak – blush pink on the inside – with a side of finely cut French Fries. The simple combination goes a long way. But CUT By Wolfgang Puck, despite its infancy on the scene, has acquired senior status among its beef brethren. Along with the opening of the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, CUT cultivated a lot of critical conversation – noise – good noise. CUT is all about steak the way you want it to be. There’s a legitimacy (courtesy of the preordering presentation of the different cuts of beef, some more marbled than others, by the waiters, brimming with expert knowledge) of what they offer. When you’re told that the restaurant gets weekly deliveries of far-flung ingredients from Japan, you know you’re in a good way. Kobe beef, anyone? We’re talking highly prized beef
When you come up the twinkling spiral staircase into the restaurant, you immediately take in the burgeoning views of Bahrain Bay within the airy volumes of the interiors. There’s no cutting corners at CUT, everything is generously sized – from the cocktail glasses to the seating arrangements – there’s a plushness that is hard to fault. The décor is minimal – the emphasis is in the plate presentation. That’s not to say the starry light fixtures don’t create atmosphere.
“I hope you’re hungry because we have a lot to get through today,” says Ben Small, CUT’s Executive Chef. He made it sound like we were set to do obstacle training with little respite for the weak. Challenge accepted. Having been with the CUT family for over eight years, from Beverly Hills to Bahrain, we knew we were in capable hands. We start off with a selection of oozing warm bread, sprinkles of crunchy salt on top and a slab of rosemary infused butter. We were already singing praises. Combining items from the lunch and dinner menu, Chef Small had us on the Big Eye Tuna Tartare, Wasabi, Ginger, Togarashi Crisps and Tosa Soy to begin with. Along with a Jumbo Lump Crab (completely fresh no less) & Shrimp “Louis” Cocktail, Spicy Tomato Horseradish and a Wild Field Mushroom Ravioli with Parmesan Reggiano, the starters were creamy good and prickling with earthy
flavours. The latter was particularly air-like and enjoyably slippery.
Catering for the vegetarians (none among us mind you) the following dish was a winter inspired creation: a Line Caught Gulf Bass, Sunchoke Puree, Roasted Potato, Brussels Sprouts, Mushroom Emulsion. Sounds technical enough, doesn’t it? In taste, the scorched-to-a-crisp skin that had a batterstyle crunch into a baby soft chew of bass was a touch citrusy and winter-warming at the same time.
On to the big boys. Of all the meats we had, the star of the steak lineup had to be
the New York Rib Eye. Our waiter said: “I respect any woman who goes for a Rib
Eye.” My steak, towards full on rare, was enough to make a Paleo abiding person cry with joy. It was melt-in-your-mouth tender. With it a number of complimenting sides – Tempura Onion Rings, Hand-Cut French Fries with Herbs, Creamed Spinach with Fried Organic Egg and Cavatappi Pasta “Mac & Cheese” Aged Cheddar. It was simply perfect.
Somehow there’s room for dessert after all that. The Dark Chocolate Soufflé with
Whipped Crème Fraiche and Gianduja Chocolate Ice Cream is not to be missed, especially if you like that hot and cold experience.
Call 1711 5000 for reservations and more information.