Liz O’Reilly discovered a new dining favourite on a visit to Piani Restobar.

If the Crowne Plaza has somewhat faded from your gastronomic radar of late, now’s the time to rediscover this erstwhile favourite. There’s a big surprise in store.

In truth, I would generally think of this stalwart property more in terms of its impressive longevity and welcoming atmosphere rather than for flashes of culinary brilliance. But, stepping through the doors of Piani Restobar, I had a feeling that was about to change.

Directly inside you’re met with an Art Deco-style marble bar with antiqued mirror backing, topped by a striking blue glass ceiling sculpture, reminiscent of a wave. Neighbouring fridges display an impressive selection of meats and high-quality bubbles and nearby a baby grand piano awaits someone to tinkle the ivories.

The space is the perfect size, large enough not to feel cramped while small enough to impart an air of easy intimacy. Parquet flooring, plush leather seating and marble-topped tables are set against dark, high-gloss wooden walls adorned with black and white photos of old-style European city scenes. Overall, the feeling is of the understated opulence you’d find in a classic, upmarket restaurant in Italy – which restaurant manager Mark said is exactly the ambience they were aiming for.

With a welcoming smile, he joined us to explain the concept, which is described as ‘Italian with a Slavic twist’. The chefs are from Russia and many of the dishes include intriguing ingredients that make for interesting contrasts to the regular Italian fare. To my surprise, there’s also a chef’s special sushi selection, which Mark explained is based around the many different fish species used in Eastern European cooking, in addition to the standard Japanese varieties.

With the introductions completed, my companions and I were eager to get acquainted with the menu and, I will say straight away, it did not disappoint.

After some delicious home-baked bread, we were quickly served with silky Black Angus tartar with truffle, parmesan and aged balsamic. The meat, enveloped in the caress of a creamy sauce, beautifully offset the generous curls of salty parmesan and earthy truffle, coming together to create a symphony on the tongue.

Italian burrata, gooey and fluid, followed, its solid casing giving way to a gorgeously runny centre, presented at the perfect temperature to avoid solidification. Served with a signature raspberry balsamic that cut through the richness, the whole was perfectly complemented by the sweetness of cherry tomatoes.

Superb quality beef carpaccio came next, the meat melt-inthe-mouth tender and served with a surprising semi-spiced mango sauce. The mango added both sweetness and a gentle heat drawing out the intense, gamey flavour of the meat, while a scattering of rocket added a light peppery bite.

Next up was one of my favourite dishes – though it certainly wasn’t easy to choose. The Signature Crab Salad could have been a meal by itself. Shredded crab meat, sweet and briny, sat amidst a medley, including avocado, crisp green leaves, raw broccoli and juicy plum tomatoes. Brought together by a lightly spicy sauce, caramelised pecans added a deliciously crunchy light sweetness and flying fish roe gave a wonderfully salty pop on the tongue – surprising, intriguing and very moreish.

From the goodness of crunchy salad to outright rich indulgence, Chef’s Ravioli with King Crab and smoked cream was pure extravagance in a bowl. The intense, creamy sauce is cooked for eight hours over charcoal, rendering it a deeply flavourful partner to the homemade pasta – al dente and toothy. A black design, painted in squid ink on the dough, added visual interest, standing out against bright green flashes of parsley oil that was the perfect foil for the sweet crab meat.

Stewed veal cheeks may not sound particularly appetising, but this was meat so soft, I could literally pull it apart with a spoon. The minimal fat had rendered down into the flesh, bringing a subtle richness to the delicate flavour. Pearl barley, celery root and a truffle parmesan mousse added the finishing touches for a dish not only intensely flavourful but also beautifully presented. Almost too pretty to eat, this was another of the day’s standouts.

Our final savoury was the lighter but no less impressive filet of Norwegian seabass. Flaky, tender meat with a buttery texture and mild flavour that lent itself perfectly to a delicate lemon butter sauce. A gentle and refreshing finish to the savoury element of our meal that allowed us a slight respite from the richness that had gone before… and that still to come.

It was time for desserts and Honey Cake Medovik was an amazing concoction of 19 layers that takes five days to make and tastes every bit as special as it sounds! Soft and moist with a light sour cream filling and served with a dollop of sweet cream, it was utterly delicious – the honey melded perfectly with the sour cream to leave a charming aftertaste that had me craving more.

The final showpiece was Tiramisu by Chef. A massive bowl of creamy fluff decorated with fat, juicy blueberries was brought to the table on a trolly at which our server added the toppings before our eyes, including caramel sauce, cocoa powder and a generous spritz of edible gold. Definitely one for the coffee lovers, the savoiardi biscuits had been soaked in triple expresso and we could certainly taste the rich smokiness of the bean. But for me, a non-coffee drinker, the generous amount of creamy goodness ensured it wasn’t overpowering, and that spritz of gold was pure theatre.

Our Piani experience was at an end and I honestly could not have asked for more. From the wait staff and the intriguing menu to the high-quality ingredients and atmospheric décor, this restobar can claim its place among the island’s finest eateries and I definitely have a new addition to my list of favourites. ✤

GO: CALL 3440 4100 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.