Liz O’Reilly discovered speakeasy style and a menu of tasty upscale bites on a trip to The Backroom by The Bossman.

Recently opened at The Flagship, in the heart of Seef, there are two ways to reach The Backroom: either through the official entrance or via the secret door disguised as a bookcase inside The Bossman.

I, of course, chose the latter – after all, who can resist a bit of secret squirrel-style drama? And that dramatic entrance didn’t disappoint, leading through to an atmospheric dining area right out of Prohibition Era New York City.

The inspiration is very definitely Big Apple speakeasy; according to owner Abdulla Ahmed, it’s one of his favourite cities. And the influence of a forbidden past can clearly be spotted in the vintage photographs and interesting knick-knacks that add character.

Seating is plush and comfortable with black and white patterns and embossed leather, tables are marble in dark green or bronze and low-hanging chandeliers sparkle, casting a glittering glow across the dark-painted walls.

On one wall, embossed with metallic-style wallpaper, signage boards carry messages to diners – ‘Congratulations on your business deal’ and ‘Behind every closed door, there’s a story waiting to be told. Tonight, it begins’.

Overall, the feeling is of being let in on a delicious secret – it’s not that The Backroom is hidden, it just feels like you’ve made a really cool discovery when that hidden door at the rear of The Bossman opens and you see what lies beyond.

With a selection of mocktails ordered (prepared with great aplomb at the bar) and, after taking in the funky details of custom designed plates and cutlery holders, we were happy to see our Truffle Rocket Salad heading to the table. Abundant fresh rocket leaves were accompanied by truffle mushroom tuile, grated parmesan, candied walnuts and figs, dressed in balsamic vinegar. This was honestly the best possible starter – bright and zingy to refresh from the scorching heat outside, the depth of the truffle’s earthiness was perfectly offset by the crunchy, sweet walnuts. A great indication of the treats to come.

Next up, my absolute favourite dish of the day, Chili Yuzu Shrimps. Crispy fried shrimp on a bed of tartare sauce, drizzled with in-house yuzu chilli sauce and topped with fresh chilli. I love the combination of sweet, slightly briny shrimps with chilli’s heat, and this dish was a shining example of this marriage made in heaven. The shellfish was firm and tasty, the sauce rich, creamy and lightly fiery, gently teasing the taste buds to go back for just one more bite.

Described as ‘like a back-alley bite in downtown Manhattan with a Tokyo soul’, the Charred Beef Skewers with capsicum, glazed in house-made kushiyaki sauce, were delightfully sweet with an umami tang from the topping of sesame seeds and chives. A street food staple, but the quality of the cut belied that origin and gave a considered extra depth.

The Truffle Mushroom Pizza is a house speciality, and rightly so. The dough, crisply blistered at the edges and perfectly chewy in the centre, was adorned with rich white truffle cream, transforming this humble dish into something much more luxurious. Toppings of mozzarella, herbs, mushrooms, truffle mascarpone and parmesan, finished with truffle mushroom tuile rendered this whole experience one of extreme indulgence and, honestly, this pizza is a deeply satisfying meal all by itself.

After a short digestive break, the first of the mains to arrive was Porcini Steak Risotto – Josper-grilled tenderloin over creamy porcini risotto, finished with parmesan and shimeji mushrooms. Wow, just wow! The mellow meat took on a slight smokiness from the grill and was so tender and juicy, it literally melted on the tongue. The risotto with its creamy render and the earthy, nutty flavour of the mushrooms was a triumph, a perfect combination.

Pesto Gnocchi – a dish of crisp breaded chicken with warm pesto gnocchi – was traditional comfort food in a rich tomato sauce that reminded me of home. And then it was on to the pièce de résistance, the second signature of the day, Steak & Cappelletti.

A substantial chunk of tenderloin, cooked beautifully medium rare – soft and at the same time gamey, rich and oozing deeply flavourful juices – was topped by a toothsome Cappelletti ‘hat’. The pasta, al dente without being hard, encased an indulgent cacio e pepe sauce that flowed over the steak at the touch of a knife. The menu claims this dish is ‘crafted to impress’ and it certainly did that, a symphony of deep, satisfying flavours and contrasting textures that made my taste buds sit up and take notice, even after sampling so many great dishes.

We finished our culinary journey with two desserts, Miso Pistachio Crème Brûlée with raspberries and an orange infused chocolate fondant with hazelnut shard and chocolate mousse, surrounded by chocolate soil and raspberries.

The mild saltiness of the miso and pistachio provided the perfect foil to the richness of the creamy brûlée for an interesting flavour combination. But, for me, the star of this sweet show was the superb chocolate explosion of the richly melting fondant, the crumbly soil adding texture alongside the sweetness of the raspberries. Deeply indulgent and wholly satisfying – honestly, what more could a girl want?

If I’ve whetted your appetite, head to Seef and discover The Backroom’s secrets for yourself – somehow, I don’t think this one is going to stay under the radar for very long.

GO: CALL 1736 5185 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.