Liz O’Reilly and friends discovered a menu that’s both classically hearty and intriguingly modern on a visit to the recently opened Nina The Greek, in Saar.

The first floor of Nakheel Centre is not where I’d expect to find a new restaurant that I’m absolutely convinced is bound for stardom. But, like much else about Nina The Greek, the location proved a revelation. Once inside, you quickly forget you’re in a cute outdoor mall and are transported to somewhere altogether more cosy with a distinctly Hellenic vibe.

More about that later, as one look at the menu – yes, the place actually has printed menus (praise be) – and we were convinced to dive right into the food.

Nina The Greek’s Delicious Salads And Starters

It would be remiss to visit a Greek restaurant without sampling the Greek Salad – known the world over and always a reliable favourite. But Nina’s version presents a fantastic twist on the classic. It arrived at the table as a whole large, skinned palm tomato sitting in a pool of feta mousse and vibrant green, basil-infused extra virgin olive oil (EVOO). Chef Hussain, both Head Chef and partner, cut into it at the table to reveal a centre stuffed with the ingredients you would expect from a Greek salad – diced tomato and cucumber mixed with pickled shallots. Add in a healthy dose of fresh oregano and pickled capers for added depth and this was a complete winner, which has left me slightly obsessed with basil olive oil – I wonder if they sell it.

Next came Melitzanosalata. But there was no boring bowl for this traditional dip, instead half a large roasted eggplant was crowned by a bed of pomegranate arils. When we dug beneath the crimson topping, the familiar gooey, smoky, garlicky flesh was there in all its  velvety glory.

An orb of feta mousse was light, creamy and salty, given that little something extra by a generous topping of Greek salsa with chopped Kalamata olives, bringing their rich, fruity flavour to the mix.

From the menu, you could be forgiven for thinking that Htipiti is a similar thing, since the base is also whipped feta, but the two could not be more different. This one has the addition of fire-roasted red peppers, EVOO and a hint of red grape vinegar. To one of my dining companions, for whom this dish brings memories of home, the Nina’s version brought a big smile. For me, I loved the rich depth of the flavours: lightly salty cheese coupled with the sweetness of the peppers and beautifully balanced by the heat of the chilli. This truly reminded me of the taverna dips of my youth and brought a longing to hop straight on a plane headed for the Saronic Gulf.

The last of the appetisers was the Crispy Zucchini. On seeing this on the menu, I was expecting my long-time favourite, which is traditionally prepared with semolina coated zucchini slices. But, once again, Chef Hussain Abusaqer had a surprise in store. Long strips of the vegetable (yes, we know it’s technically a fruit) came in a delicious, crispy tempura batter that preserved the crunch long after it had left the pan. It was served with Greek yoghurt and goat cheese dip surrounded by house-made balsamic and red chilli. Light heat, serious crunch and rich cheesiness, what’s not to like?

A Welcoming, Cosy Ambience

As we waited for the mains, I took some time to speak with founder and owner Nina Chanel and learnt that the interiors and furnishings are bespoke, with wooden chairs and deep, comfy banquettes created by Bahraini multidisciplinary creatives 8/23 Design Studio, who are in the process of whipping up seating for the soon-to-open outside terrace.

The walls are classic white, covered in murals of that particular Grecian blue, painted by a Bahrain-based, international artist Yana Dimitrova, created specially for the restaurant and featuring scenes from Nina’s own life and the inspiration behind the concept. Look closely and you’ll spot her with her three dogs.

The overall effect is charming. Bright and airy but also welcoming and somehow cosy. It was easy to see why, even on a late afternoon, there were other large tables happily enjoying this comforting blend of hospitality.

Catch Of The Day, Delicious Short Ribs And More

Soon our mains began to arrive and I couldn’t wait to tuck into the Catch of the Day – 800g of fresh pan-seared seabass in a bright, aromatic citrus sauce with red and yellow drop peppers, basil oil, sun-dried tomato oil and charred lemon. This was sublime. The fish was flaky and flavoursome, the sauce simply tasted like more and the skin, which so often lets a great fish dish down, was delicately crispy finished with sherry vinegar and Maldon salt for a satisfying crunch.

The Mushroom Short Ribs were another triumph. Deeply gamey beef, slow cooked in a dark, rich mushroom jus until the meat fell apart at the merest touch of the fork, served with a totally sinful potato puree that tasted like at least 50% butter! I am a potato snob and this mash totally hit the sweet spot for me.

Supreme Lemonato consisted of a brined, corn-fed chicken breast served with lemon roasted potatoes with tomatoes and herbs, basil oil and a reduction of chicken jus. The chicken’s outer skin was charred and crispy, leading to succulent, tender flesh with a bright acidity that lingered in the mouth.

We also had Bahraini clams in lemon herb sauce which were a surprise to me as they were briny yet slightly sweet, without a hint of rubberiness, just a satisfying mouthful that I was happy to go back to several times – quite something since I usually avoid shellfish. Chef Hussain said the secret is “red wine vinegar sauce, chives and a bit of magic!” and I totally believe him.

A Fresh Take On Baklava And Other Desserts

We took a short break for drinks – two delicious mocktails that I urge you to try for yourself, particularly the strawberry one that tasted like a really, really good slushie. Then it was time for desserts.

The lemon sorbet was like a taste of summer, light and fresh, for a little twist, served on a bed of Granny Smith apples. The homemade vanilla ice cream came with a crunchy butter tuile for added texture and the chocolate mousse was a total star. Light and airy but at the same time deeply chocolatey thanks to the use of 70% Valrhona chocolate and extra virgin olive oil. A touch of salt in the construction added to the intrigue and depth of flavour and it disappeared almost indecently quickly.

The pièce de resistance, though, was the De-constructed Baklava, which I can honestly say was one of the best desserts I’ve tasted in a long time. Greek yoghurt was whipped with vanilla cream for sweetness, pistachio praline brought rich nutty depth, while the crunchy filo layers crackled satisfyingly under the spoon. Our whole party was suitably impressed and I will definitely be going back for another portion (I want the whole thing to myself!).

I hope I’ve convinced you to take a trip to Nina’s – there’s a very strong chance you’ll find me there.

GO: Follow @nina_the_greek or call 1732 2777 for more information or to make a reservation.