Modelled as a contemporary majlis with inspiration from one of the great ancient cities, Liz O’Reilly found that Ninive, the new dining destination at Raffles Al Areen Palace Bahrain, offers the best of both worlds.

The new outlet is reached through the property’s gorgeous gardens and, arriving in the evening, we were treated to the full spectacle of a design drawn from Mesopotamian mythology and Bedouin architecture, glowing in the light of brass lanterns almost like an ancient desert encampment.

We’d arrived hungry and, quickly seated on the expansive terrace, we immediately dived into the menu which is an inviting mix of favourites from across the Middle East and North Africa. Classic flavours that are right at home in this setting.

Ninive’s Signature Starters

Deciding to take the recommendations of the helpful serving team, before we knew it our appetisers started to arrive, one after another until the table was a delightful tableau of riotous colours and delicious aromas.

First up, Quinoa Tabbouleh with spiced mango brought a modern touch to a traditional staple, and I loved the twist. The bright herbaceous acidity of the parsley and mint were perfectly balanced by the mild earthiness of the quinoa while the punchy mango transformed a regular dish into something much more interesting and special.

Zaalouk, a sharing favourite at every Moroccan table, proved equally as enticing to us. Grilled eggplant, roasted paprika, shallots and tomatoes all slow-cooked into a deliciously mushy, rich red paste. Deeply smoky and flavourful with a faint hint of spice, it was a dish we went back to time and again, scooping it up with chunks of hot fresh bread.

The house signature Tamarind Chicken was a definite standout, the deep sweet-tart profile of the tamarind lending itself deliciously to the charred, yoghurt-smothered chicken bites. Each mouthful was a small triumph, an exceptional combination of flavours bursting on the tongue.

Maast o Khiar brought us back into familiar territory with the much-loved Persian yoghurt dish. But, true to form, there was a little something extra in the mix. Alongside the standard cucumber and mint, Ninive’s kitchen added raisins and rosewater, giving a lovely bright sweetness alongside the rich sharpness of the yoghurt.

Almost at the end of our appetiser journey, we sampled Cheese Briwats, traditional Moroccan triangular pastries stuffed with goat cheese, walnuts and blackcurrants. Not unlike our beloved samosas, these were a winning combination of crunchy, thin dough and rich, salty cheese. The crisp sweetness of the blackcurrants and earthy nuts cut through the slight greasiness of the cheese for a mouthwatering texture and flavour combination.

Last up on the starters came a dish that was new to me, but one that traces its roots back to the 10th century! Chicken Pastilla is traditionally a celebration dish, sweet and savoury and served with fanfare. Lightly spiced minced chicken comes in a casing of excellent thin, crispy dough topped with crushed sugar and cinnamon. I must admit that, to my Western palate, the idea of serving a savoury dish with sugar seemed odd. But, I love trying new (to me) things and actually this was an interesting combination. I absolutely loved the pastry, which crackled under my fork, revealing that slightly spicy interior. A taste I feel I could acquire.

Quiet Opulence In Zallaq

After the generous selection of appetisers, we took a digestive break and explored the interiors before sampling a selection of mocktails.

I have to say, the restaurant is absolutely stunning. Abundant material tenting on the ceiling gives the impression of a desert camp, while dark wood, lush green foliage and brass hanging lanterns lend an air of abundance and quiet opulence. Black and white photographs on the walls recall times past while a well-stocked bar, which includes a selection of crafted beverages, adds a contemporary twist.

There’s an imaginative mixed drinks menu and an impressive cellar but we chose to go with a few of the expertly curated mixology options. Blueberry Note came with homemade hibiscus syrup and blueberry jam – a little sweet for me but I did love the use of jam instead of puree. Lost in Paradise with its mix of Japanese green tea and passionfruit, was cool and refreshing. But the favourite for both myself and my dining companion was Kiss From A Rose, which has been created specially for ladies. Strawberry puree, cranberry juice and rose water, it was served in a Cosmo glass, looking pretty and tasting like summer.

Hearty Middle Eastern And North African Cuisine

Back at our table, the first of the mains to arrive was vegetable tagine – a selection of seasonal vegetables baked in the traditional earthen tagine and served in a complex sauce created from grated zucchini, carrots, tomatoes and spices. Rich and deeply flavoursome, the sauce coated a medley of vegetables, of which I particularly enjoyed the artichokes – big, juicy and lightly smoky – and the black olives which gave a briny bite, cutting through the richness of the sauce.

The Turkish Lahmacun was another favourite. To be honest, when we saw the flatbread coming, neither of us expected very much. But, we couldn’t have been more wrong. The bread itself was paper thin and crisply blistered on the delicately charred edges yet soft and chewy further in where the juices from the meat topping had soaked in. The topping of minced lamb was elevated with peppers, onions, tomatoes and chilli. Warmly comforting with the gentle kick of the chilli, it was a clear demonstration of why this is such a popular street food. We both said we’d go back for this dish alone.

That was true until we tasted the last of the mains and were each rendered momentarily speechless.

Tashreeb is one of the oldest dishes in Arabic cuisine and it has certainly passed the test of time. Seven-hour, slow-cooked lamb shoulder (800g of it) takes on the myriad flavours of spices, such as cardamom and cumin, as the meat braises in its own rich gravy until the flesh literally melts from the bone. Beneath, a base of msemmen bread soaks up all that joyous jus flavour for a dish that’s both slightly sweet and deeply umami. This is truly comfort in a bowl and, if you try just one thing (apart from dessert) at Ninive, this should be it.

An Irresistible Sweet Finish!

And, so to dessert. I honestly didn’t think I could eat another thing. But when that thing looks as pretty as our final dish, it’s very hard to resist.

Now, frozen yoghurt would not usually be my choice, but when it comes with caramelised nuts, nougat and a tuile fashioned from golden crystalised honey, you have an absolute standout that has it all – tart, rich, creamy yoghurt; sweet delicate honey and chewy nuts and nougat – an absolutely perfect end to an outstanding repast.

GO: Follow @ninivebahrain or call 3605 7495 for more information or to make a reservation.