When most of us think of Sri Lanka, it is of the regular tourist spots of the Yalla National Park or Galle and the beaches of the south coast. But the country’s northern region is a world apart from the rest of the country – equally as beautiful but wilder, less developed and still recovering from the worst fighting of the long civil war, which only ended in 2009.

To get pretty much anywhere in the north, you’ll start your journey at Jaffna, which gives an indication of why this area is so different – a strong Indian influence. From the music to the markets and even the food, you will spot it everywhere since the region has been occupied by Indian forces many times and is much closer to the mainland than the south. However, Jaffna has its own unique and complex identity shaped in true Sri Lankan fashion, by a wide cross-section of influences, including Muslim, Portuguese, Dutch, British and Sinhalese, with colourful temples set next to huge churches, and streets dotted with ancient Dutch and British residences.

Get out of Jaffna and there’s loads to see and do. Head to Kalpitiya, a jump-off point to numerous offshore islands. Here you will find mangrove swamps and vast sand dunes. Take a boat trip to see pods of dolphins, up to 100-strong, leaping and dancing off the coral reef. Whales are also known in the local waters. Make sure you take a trip to Delft island for something a bit (nay, a lot) different, including wild horses.

The most fabulous wildlife experience must be staying in a treehouse and watching visiting wild elephants heading to a watering hole, or pinching fruit from the gardens! The Sigiri Charuka Resort comes highly recommended for an authentic experience. But, remember, these are wild animals, they have been known to trample people, so take care!

You can get to Jaffna by train. It’s a seven- to eight-hour journey and seriously scenic. There’ll be food and drink sellers on the train but it’s a good idea to take your own. And make sure you book a seat in the highest-class section you can afford as Sri Lankan trains have lots of stops and can get very crowded.