Persian Delights

Liz O’Reilly took a journey through Persian culinary heritage on a trip to the newly opened Golestan.
A visit to the newly refurbished Sheraton Bahrain Hotel was high on my list, as I was eager to see the changes. So, when an invitation came to check out the just opened Golestan Persian Grill, I jumped at the chance.
Heading through the hotel lobby, I was already impressed with the sense of space and luxury and, once inside, I was immediately struck by a sense of quiet opulence with Persian royal blue featuring strongly, yet unobtrusively, in the décor. Directly opposite the entrance, an open half kitchen revealed a display of decorative brass cooking pots, alongside chefs kneading and oven baking wonderfully aromatic breads.
The seating, with intricate floral patterns on a cream linen background, was plush and comfortable and the blue elements continued throughout, from decorative peacock-style tiling on the base of the kitchen counter to vases and more.
One side of the restaurant is comprised of a wall of windows welcoming abundant natural light and giving access to a comfortable terrace for outside dining. At the edge of the terrace, the hotel’s glittering blue pool adds to the atmosphere and provides the feeling of being in a private playground surrounded by the neighbouring high-rise buildings.

The first thing to arrive at the table was a deliciously sweet, dark and rich pomegranate juice, the perfect accompaniment to the traditional Persian appetiser plate of freshly baked bread, with crispy edges and fluffy middle, served with the classic accompaniments of apricot jam, feta with herbs, crunchy walnuts and green leaves. Restaurant Manager Yasser suggested we should try the jam and cheese in unison and it was a fabulous combination of sweet and salty, made all the better with a sprinkling of crunchy walnut.
Off to an excellent start, I was delighted to see a range of mezzes heading our way. I love these little tasting dishes and am often tempted to skip the main courses in favour of eating my fill of the starters. I have to admit, this was one of those occasions!
I started with the Zeytoon Parvade – green olives, walnuts, pomegranate syrup and garlic – since it was a dish I’d not encountered before. The firm, juicy olives had taken on the flavour of the marination without losing their briny tang and the combination of the fruits and nuts made for a satisfyingly chunky bite.
Koofteh Gehlgheli – slow cooked meatballs with lentils, dried apricot, walnuts and fresh herbs – were also new to me, though I have eaten variations of the dish many times. The delicate mix of apricot and herbs gave the meatballs a great sweet and tart mix and the addition of lentils led to a deeply comforting (and super filling) texture.



Salad Labu Va Anar – beetroot, pomegranate and cheese salad with herbs – was definitely one of my favourites and had much more going on than the listed ingredients. The piquancy of sliced, high-quality olives beautifully tempered the sweetness of the beets and pomegranate arils and coupled with the sharp tang of the crumbled feta, this just tasted like more.
We tried several other exemplary mezze dishes, of which Mast-o Khiar – yoghurt, cucumber, walnuts, raisins and rose petals – was possibly my dish of the day. A simple combination that’s common in various forms in cuisines from Indian to Greek, I honestly wasn’t expecting much from this unassuming dish – though the rose petals and nuts sprinkled atop the creamy yoghurt did look exceptionally pretty. But, oh my word, one mouthful and I was sold. The yoghurt, sweet without even a hint of sourness, beautifully complemented the delicate rose flavour and the nutty crunch gave an excellent toothiness.
It was time for the mains and first up was Mahi Shekampor – sea bass stuffed with walnuts, aromatic herbs, garlic and pomegranate sauce. The fish arrived at the table whole and Yasser made a great show of serving us the boneless meat, along with generous helpings of the tasty stuffing.
The meat was perfectly cooked, flaky without being dry and wonderfully satisfying, it’s delicate flavour drawn out by the herby goodness of the stuffing. Baghali Polow Ba Mihcheh was a large, braised lamb shank, so well rendered that the meat literally fell from the bone. The accompanying sauce made the rich sweetness of the lamb dance and all at our table were suitably impressed.
And, of course, one cannot visit a Persian restaurant without trying a mixed grill. It’s a combination dish for which the country is rightly famed and one that Chef Mohsen has mastered to absolute perfection.



We were served an incredibly generous platter of kebabs and chops – marinated chicken, lamb, kofta and beef, all of which were amazing. This dish really is a meat lover’s dream but, to be honest, could be eaten without anything else, as it is a huge portion – all the better for us though as we each took some home! Last but very definitely not least, came the desserts. And though we were full, we simply could not resist.
Damp Shokolati – homemade dark chocolate raspberry truffles – oh, be still my beating heart! Crisp, rich, high-cocoa content chocolate in a bombe with a sweet, gooey raspberry centre that literally made my taste buds sing – Valentine’s Day’s is coming, in case anyone wants to win my affections.
And Brulee Zaferan – saffron crème brûlée – had myself and my dining companion battling over the last spoonful. This creamy custard with its glass-like burnt sugar topping, is always my ‘go to’. Add in the subtle luxury of saffron and it’s a surefire winner.
I can safely say the new Golestan is every bit as good as its predecessor, perhaps even better. But, don’t take my word for it. Go try it yourself, you’ll be glad you did. ✤
GO: CALL 1753 3533 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.
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