A FEAST BY THE BAY

Melissa Nazareth savours an authentic Ramadan experience at Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay’s pop-up beachside restaurant.

Even as I pulled into the property, I knew I was surrounded by world-class luxury like no other. Despite it being a busy evening, there was a certain calm aura that hung over the lobby – fitting for a hotel such as this. We were escorted to the pop-up restaurant by the beach where Four Seasons Bahrain Bay will host their Ramadan evenings, in addition to the main buffet set-up near the ballroom. The view of the island’s unending skyline is what we saw first, bright across the night sky. The weather was pleasant, to say the least, with a soft breeze blowing, offering the perfect setting for an al fresco dinner.

We were greeted by Chef Tony El Khour, the hotel’s newly appointed Oriental speciality chef, who started us off with some appetisers paired with a variety of saj (bread cooked on a saj grill). Our cold mezze included staples such as hummus (chickpea dip), baba ghanouj (eggplant dip) and Warak Enab (stuffed vine leaves). We selected batata harra (spiced potatoes) and kibbeh (meat and bulgur wheat croquettes) for the hot mezze. Usually, kibbeh tends to get dry but this one had a crunchy crust and moist filling, offering a contrast of textures. The juicy, tangy vine leaves stole the show for me and had an authentic Lebanese flavour. I loved the batata harra, crisp on the outside and mushy on the inside. They were spicy – appealing to my Indian palate – although mild. It was my first time trying out Shanklish (aged Middle Eastern cheese bits with tomatoes, onions and parsley) and let me tell you that this one isn’t for the faint hearted. The fermented cheese has a strong flavour but, for someone like me who believes the stronger the odour of the cheese the tastier it is, this is a must-try. We were also served what we were told is called tagine but wasn’t tagine as we know it. It was a soft, solid mixture of sesame paste and a variety of nuts and dried fruit, shaped into patties and to be eaten with the flat bread.

We tried some fusion appetisers and some others with a twist. The mhammara (spicy dip made from walnuts, red bell peppers, pomegranate molasses and breadcrumbs) was served as balls instead of as a dip, which we found intriguing and were eager to try. It had a nutty flavour and was mildly sweet and tangy. While it tasted the same as the original, the texture is what made it interesting, which is why you must try it at least once. The fusion variation of hummus and pesto hummus was quite a hit with my taste buds. It cleverly blended the flavours of pesto – sweet basil, toasty pine nuts and cheese – with the earthy flavour of chickpeas. Another fusion dish was the fried mozzarella sticks coated with za’atar-infused breadcrumbs.

We opted for mixed grills for our main course, including shish tawook and grilled meat and lamb chops. Perfectly seasoned, the meat was juicy and succulent and had a wonderfully smoky flavour. Many places serve lamb chops that are difficult to cut, but not the Four Seasons! The meat was pliable – easy to cut and eat. Four Seasons’ Ramadan buffet will spoil you for choice with an extensive range of international dishes like sushi, Italian, Spanish paella, ceviche (raw fished cured with fresh citrus juices) and Indian street food. They will also have a Bahraini cooking station, featuring Ouzi (baked lamb and spiced rice), halwa (fish), machboos (spiced rice dish with meat) and others. Furthermore, you can enjoy 18 live cooking stations, featuring Arab and Lebanese specialities such as fattah (rice with meat, spices and aromatics), koshari (an Egyptian staple mixing rice, pasta and brown lentils, and topped with a zesty tomato sauce, garlic vinegar and garnished with chickpeas and crispy fried onions), manakeesh (flatbread with toppings – the pizza of the east!), falafel and shawarma to name a few.

Our last course was dessert and we decided to take a bit of break first to enjoy the ambience. In the background, popular Arabic songs from the 90s kept us entertained. Kunafa is ubiquitous during Ramadan and no points for guessing that we chose that as our dessert of the evening. The vermicelli was crunchy as were the pistachio crumbs against the creamy vanilla ice cream layer, which took us by surprise. Traditionally, kunafa is layered with cheese or clotted cream. We also had baklava, another Ramadan staple, which was loaded with nuts. Those with a sweet tooth can choose from a range of options including maamoul (date filled cookie) and ice cream, as well as an extensive cake buffet and chocolate fountain. Having had a long day, this opulent Iftar feast by the bay was just what we needed and we can’t wait to go back for more. ✤

GO: CALL 1711 5500 OR EMAIL DININGRESERVATIONS. BAHRAIN@FOURSEASONS.COM TO MAKE A RESERVATION.