From nostalgic chaat and expertly grilled tandoori dishes to fragrant biryani and indulgent desserts, Farah Baig discovers Rasoi – one of Bahrain’s finest Indian restaurants.

Last month, when I found out that I’d soon be heading to Rasoi – the Indian fine-dining restaurant at The Gulf Hotel Bahrain Convention & Spa – a friend asked me a valid question: “Indian food is already so incredible. How different can this experience be?”

Despite having visited a few times prior, I wasn’t completely satisfied with my response. So, when I set out for Rasoi one Monday afternoon, I was determined to scrutinise the food, ambience, service and other factors that contributed to the overall experience.

Entering Rasoi’s doors can feel a bit like stepping into Narnia. You walk into the intimate lounge and bar area, where you can watch skilled mixologists bring refreshing beverages to life, before making your way into the palatial restaurant.

Rasoi has several great seating options, but I’m somehow always enticed by one of three round tables against the far wall. These offer a sense of semi-privacy as you’re cocooned in floor-to-ceiling crystal curtains, but can still see the excitement in the kitchen across the tables.

Once seated, our host Akshay brought out bowls of poppadoms and a trio of chutneys, which we happily devoured while we waited for our starters.

Being part Indian myself, I’ve always experienced a sense of nostalgia when it comes to Indian food, with the spices that tantalise your tastebuds and aromas that waft through the air long before each dish makes its way to the table. Every dish sparks a memory, so when I’d learnt that we’d start our Rasoi experience with a selection of chaat, it brought me joy.

Nostalgia Meets Flavour

Chaat always reminds me of summer getaways to Bombay as a child. We’d often sit at my mother’s favourite restaurants sharing anecdotes and lots of laughter with my aunties, uncles and cousins, while it rained heavily outside. When Rasoi’s Samosa Chaat arrived, my expectations went beyond the need for flavour. A set of hot, crisp cheese samosas rested on a bed of chickpea masala (ragda), topped with crisp sev, mint chutney, tamarind chutney and yoghurt. This beautifully plated dish satisfies diners in every way with its mix of textures, temperatures and flavours. Warm cheese and the medley of sweet, salty and tangy leave nothing more to be desired.

Next came the prettiest version I’ve ever seen – the Gulab Puri Chaat. Rasoi’s innovative spin on this classic is the addition of a fairly unusual ingredient when it comes to chaat: beetroot. The vegetable lends its vibrant pink hue and flavour to the outer casing (puri) and the chutney. The puris offer a satisfying bite, each bursting with flavour. More of that crispy sev, cool yoghurt and fresh pomegranate make it an excellent choice for a hot summer day.

Rasoi’s Regal Ambience

While we waited for our mains, Akshay crafted some refreshing drinks for us – the Rose Mojito, Lady Lavender and Sunny Fizz. I quite enjoyed the subtle flavours of the lavender beverage, which was fizzy and had the slightest floral taste.

While I happily sipped away, I took in the beauty of Rasoi. I’ve always loved how tastefully decorated it is. It’s just so… regal. As you walk in, eclectic sculptures and floor-to-ceiling floral motifs come into view. Sunshine beaming in through the skylight illuminates the restaurant’s bronze and gold accents.

And while I previously mentioned my private ‘cocoon’, the restaurant offers several fabulous seating options, including private rooms for more intimate dining experiences with family and friends.

Grilled To Perfection

I’ve always believed that tandoori grills are one of the indicators of a good Indian restaurant. Marinades are essential and keeping things juicy and flavourful is an art form.

Rasoi’s Chef de Cuisine, Tej Thapa, and his team had some exciting tandoori delicacies waiting for us. First came the Mix Chicken Tikka with four perfectly grilled chicken thighs. What made this, typically a North Indian dish, different from the usual plates you find in Bahrain is its playful use of South Indian spices. The spices were subtle, the meat was juicy and the tikka was delicious!

Next came the Calicut Style Grilled Seabass, which was wrapped in banana leaves before being cooked. The result is a firm yet flaky grilled fish with a concentrated tangy lemon marinade that tantalises your taste buds.

Biryani? Curry? Yes, Please

Not long after, a delicious Lamb Shank Rogan Josh made its way to our table. Our host, demonstrating his clear knowledge of the menu, explained that it had been marinated for 16 hours and cooked for nearly eight. As we tucked in, we realised that those hours had not gone in vain – the meat was fall-off-the-bone tender. With some freshly baked garlic naan, we dove into this delicious feast. The gravy was rich with a blend of spices, as is expected of a Rogan Josh. Finally, we were served a hot bowl of Dal Tadka and a sumptuous Dum Biryani. Dal has long been known as a staple in Indian households and is the very definition of comfort food, but it was the biryani that stole the show. For those that do not know, the final step when cooking a dum biryani involves sealing in the flavours with dough. This way the fragrance of the spices remains concentrated, and practically every grain of rice impresses. With tender pieces of chicken, a great blend of spices and yoghurt (raita) on the side, this was one I’d come back for.

Dessert The Indian Way

While we barely had any room left, our host insisted that we try two of the desserts. The Rose Rabdi Cake was soaked in rose milk and topped with rose jalebis (spiral-shaped sweets) which shone through. A generous drizzle of rose milk, light cream and a pistachio garnish made this dessert very addictive.

Finally, we ended with the creatively plated Mango Terrine. This was cool and refreshing, while the flavour of mangoes stood out.

By the end of my dining experience, I had my answer to what makes a fine-dining Indian restaurant, particularly Rasoi, so different. It’s the innovation of flavour without losing out on nostalgia, service with a smile that makes you feel at home and a regal ambience which makes you feel like royalty.

If Indian food isn’t familiar to you, Rasoi will be a revelation; and if it is, this will be an experience. If I had one piece of advice for your visit, it would be this: come hungry. ✤

GO: FOLLOW @RASOI.BH ON INSTAGRAM FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.