A journey through textures, balance and unexpected pairings, Bushra Hakim samples the new savoury menu at Ycone Paris.

Raffles Al Areen Palace Bahrain is an architectural marvel, a property that beautifully brings together the brand’s elegance with the island’s rich heritage. With its villa-style layout, graceful arches and intricate detailing, the space feels both luxurious and deeply connected to its surroundings. This harmonious fusion of culture and sophistication extends to its culinary offerings, including Ycone Paris, the brainchild of renowned pâtissier Yazid Ichemrahen. Known for his delicate approach to sweetness, Chef Yazid has now ventured into savoury creations, applying the same finesse and restraint that define his desserts.

Walking into Ycone, you’re immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of understated luxury. The space is an elegant fusion of modern and classic, where neutral tones meet warm gold and brass accents. Luxurious marble surfaces, arched doorways and soft, ambient lighting create an inviting yet sophisticated setting. Attention to detail is evident in every aspect of the experience, from the plush seating to the meticulously chosen tableware – each dish is presented on Bernardaud plates, accompanied by gleaming Christofle cutlery.

Eager to experience how this philosophy translates into the menu, I had the pleasure of trying new dishes, starting with the Tataki of Watermelon. At first glance, the dish was visually deceptive, thin slices of charred watermelon arranged so precisely that they could easily be mistaken for tuna. The flavours played with contrasts – smoky watermelon met a bonito tuna infusion and the creamy sharpness of feta, resulting in a dish that was fresh yet perplexing, with fishy undertones blending unexpectedly with the sweetness of the fruit.

The Cucumber Salad was an elegant and visually striking creation. Thin cucumber ribbons were artistically rolled and arranged on a bed of silky yuzu cream cheese. Golden, crispy tuile-like crackers, plump mustard seeds, dried cranberries and an assortment of seeds, such as pumpkin, created an incredible balance of textures – crisp, crunchy, chewy and creamy all at once. The dish was light yet layered, with the yuzu cream cheese adding a luscious contrast to the fresh cucumber, while the mustard seeds and dried fruit infused bursts of acidity and sweetness, making for a refreshing and complex bite.

Next came an assortment of finger sandwiches, each boasting distinct flavours. The truffle sandwich was an umami powerhouse, packed with an intense truffle hit enhanced by the pickled mustard seed and creamy mayonnaise. The zucchini sandwich, laced with yuzu cream cheese and a delicate white balsamic vinaigrette, was silky and subtly tangy. Meanwhile, the smoked salmon sandwich stood out with its luxurious tobiko orange butter, lending bursts of briny freshness to every bite.

Moving to something heartier, the Miso Marinated Grilled Eggplant arrived looking beautifully charred, plated with avocado and hazelnuts, drizzled with miso dressing. It had a deep salty-sweet richness with an earthy, leafy undertone – perhaps an acquired taste but undoubtedly well-executed. Then, came my favourite, Spaghetti with Caviar. A luxurious plate of al dente pasta swirled in a creamy sauce, punctuated by the salinity of caviar and the freshness of chives. The chicken jus added a savoury depth, making it a well-balanced indulgence. Paired with a vibrant drink of fresh orange juice and pomegranate, the savoury experience was light yet satisfying.

Of course, no visit to Ycone would be complete without dessert, and here is where Chef Yazid’s expertise truly shone. The Valentino Intense Orange Blossom was a vision – airy, almost ethereal, with a soft crunch of chocolate giving way to a fragrant orange blossom mousse. The pistachio praline inside added richness without overpowering the floral elegance of the dish.

The Intense Almond delivered exactly what its name promised – an almond lover’s dream. The panna cotta base was silky and creamy, complemented by an almond mousse that brought a marzipan-like depth. Finished with a delicate crunch, it was an exquisite interplay of textures.

But the real star? The 100% Vanilla. A masterpiece of simplicity and complexity, this signature dessert was an ode to vanilla in its purest form. Crafted from a blend of Tahitian and Madagascar vanilla and infused for 72 hours, it was velvety, aromatic and deeply satisfying. A dessert that lingered on the palate, leaving behind a lasting impression of indulgent refinement.

With this new savoury menu, Ycone Paris is undoubtedly carving out a fresh identity beyond its renowned sweets. The minimalist approach to salt allows the natural flavours to take centre stage, creating a dining experience that is refined, balanced and utterly unique. Whether it’s for a light lunch or a dessert indulgence, this is a culinary journey worth taking. ✤

GO: CALL 1784 5000 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.