Liz O’Reilly discovered a warm welcome and exceptional flavours on a visit to Byblos, the Lebanese beachfront restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay.

To reach Byblos is always a treat as you walk through the hotel lobby which, at this time of year, is decorated in fine style, a veritable fairy grotto of twinkling lights adorning the lush greenery. Then a short stroll through the verdant gardens put me in mind of an, almost, tropical landscape before reaching the restaurant on the sands of the private beach.

With its blue and white décor, Byblos calls to mind the Mediterranean atmosphere of its Lebanese namesake, which is enhanced with the outdoor seating and the gentle strumming of a talented guitarist. For the lovers, they can even arrange a special romantic setup in a private cabana with a heart carved in the sand and marked out with fairy lights.

They’ve recently launched a new concept on weekends from 4.30pm, Sundowners with paired bites, such as kibbeh or Batata Harrah, and we were happy to take a table beachside to experience it. The view is absolutely gorgeous as the sun sinks below the striking Manama skyline, the heavens drifting from pinks to purples and, finally, deep indigo as we sipped on a range of refreshing mocktails and mixed drinks and nibbled on our snacks. I have to admit that, on the evening we went, the weather was a bit fresh but the thoughtful provision of blankets and outdoor heaters allowed us to enjoy this magical view and experience it in comfort.

I had the Pink Lychee – lychee purée with grapefruit and elderflower syrup – sweet, pretty and moreish – with a crunchy rice meatball and pesto sauce, a perfect appetite teaser as we were staying for dinner.

However, as darkness fell, we soon moved to the warmth of the inside space which, behind its glass walls, allows you to enjoy the magnificent vista without the chills.

After tucking into some crispy bread with excellent fat olives, our mixed cold mezze arrived.

The pesto hummus was a welcome, interesting variation on the regular, the bright, sweet note of basil making a world of difference to the flavour; the beetroot moutabel was completely new to me – moutabel without eggplant! In this version, the beets are roasted to preserve both their flavour and nutritional value, before being mixed with tahina, feta, mango, walnuts and black and white sesame seeds for a delightful, earthy and satisfying flavour. We also had the hotel’s famed tabbouleh salad, which needs no explanation and was, of course, up to the usual high standard. But my absolute favourite (and that of our friendly server) was the Mafroukit Tajen, a delectable combination of diced chunky veggies, mixed nuts and tahina. Such was the rich texture in this dish that it could easily be a main course, if you are forgoing meat, and I was really impressed by it.

For hot starters we had sujuk – a new addition to the menu and a true taste of Lebanon, that’s meaty, spicy and warming. The meat in these mini sausages is mixed with yellow capsicum and chilli, among other spices, slow seared on the pan and very tasty.

We also had manakish, which was superbly crispy topped with cheese, tomatoes and onions. The cheese is Shanklish, which is made from goat labneh boiled and strained and dried in the fridge for several days, then marinated in a mix of herbs for a rich earthy flavour.

Crispy fried cheese rolls gave way to a melting inner of feta, slightly salty akawi and mozzarella with a mix of herbs. The outside was supremely crunchy making the gooey cheese within a wonderful textural surprise.

Then it was time for the mains and we tried two dishes that have just been introduced, having proved very popular during a seafood promotion some months ago. My dining companion was distinctly impressed with the Tiger Prawns – massive and flavourful from marination with garlic oil, lemon, cumin and coriander. The crustaceans were absolutely perfectly cooked with not the slightest hint of toughness and the combination of flavours truly complemented the delicate sweetness of the flesh. Our second main, and my personal favourite, was the Seabass Tajin – a deeply rich and satisfying take on classic comfort food. The sauce of tahina with caramelised onions, garlic, chilli, fresh paprika and orange and lemon juice topped with crunchy toasted almonds and black raisins, was absolutely superb. The use of orange juice, alongside the traditional favour for lemon in Lebanese cuisine, added a very slight hint of sweetness. And the overall, with the inclusion of crunchy chips of fried bread, was totally satisfying, the depth and play of the tastes and textures, particularly the firm, chunky fish, was a complete treat for the taste buds, with each nuanced layer exciting a new question of ingredient identity.

Chef Tony El Khoury explained that the secret to good Lebanese food is to achieve harmony in the flavours and this was particularly evident in that neither garlic nor chilli – both, potentially, overwhelming elements – stood out, rather playing their part in achieving that rich depth. And, I can reveal, it tastes even better the next day – I was so impressed, I took a portion home to share. With barely a centimetre of tummy space to spare, we finished our meal with two exceptional desserts. The Baklava, aromatic and crunchy with walnuts, cinnamon and cloves was accompanied by orange yoghurt ice cream, that added the perfect foil to the crisp filo pastry. And, last but definitely not least, the traditional Karabij, which I have somehow managed to miss despite many years in the region. A slightly crazy combination of pistachio base with almond shortcrust crumbles topped with natef ice cream and cotton candy. Beautifully presented, the sugary topping took me straight back to childhood and the homemade ice cream (natef is usually presented as marshmallow) was, almost literally, the icing on a completely indulgent treat. Two mouthfuls were more than enough, but I will definitely go back for more.

Our evening came to a close with a hot cup of tea, a gentle stroll back through the lush gardens and a promise to return for the first anniversary celebrations this month – 12 months since I attended the official opening, it’s easy to see why Byblos has become such a favourite on the island. ✤

GO: CALL 1711 5000 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.