SEASONAL INDULGENCE

Liz O’Reilly discovered infinite possibilities for the perfect Ramadan treat at Sash Café.

Having recently visited the fabulous neighbouring spa of the same, I was eager to try its sister eatery and headed to Sash Café in Riffa for a sneak peek at some of the Ramadan specialities.

The space is airy and light with plush velour seating both on banquettes and fabulously comfortable sofas. Accent walls in antiqued mirrored glass and palm-printed paper, a mini-library, and crystal chandeliers give a feeling of opulence without being over the top. And, above all, the ambience is welcoming.

Seated on one of the banquettes, our host explains that they create a special Ramadan menu each year and this year’s is mainly Arabic with hints of international Influence. Though most Ramadan menu items are new, there are, of course, a couple of all-time favourites, which always return – guests would not have it otherwise.

A nice touch is that the dishes are served on special seasonal plates featuring Arabic writing and we start off with Biryani Bombs – an inspired creation consisting of balls of aromatic biryani rice, rich in the traditional mix of ‘granny’s’ spices, encased in crispy panko and golden fried. Served on a bed of creamy baba ghanoush and diced tomato salsa, this clearly says ‘traditional Ramadan food’ but with a fun and interesting twist. These are a firm favourite and I will certainly be ordering them again.

A falafel salad is one of those dishes that’s made a return from last year and it’s easy to see why. Lots of rocket and cucumber gives a green healthy impression with both look and feel elevated by a scattering of jewel-like crimson pomegranate seeds. The mini falafel are crunchy and satisfying, their fluffy interiors imparting a subtle tang of heat. The dressing of lemon and tahini is the ideal complement and the addition of chickpeas that have been boiled, crushed and spiced to perfection before being crispy fried add the stand-out element. (I have far more than my fair share of these and feel no shame at all!)

Beef Rendang Paninis present another surprising combination. If you’re a fan of this lightly-spiced Indonesian meat dish, you’ll love these. The slow-braised and pulled meat is explosively flavourful and so tender that it barely needs chewing. Serving it on bread with an onion jam is a creative masterstroke since Ramadan is all about easy-to-eat comforting food. And I absolutely have to give special mention to the accompanying French fries. They must be at least triple-cooked to achieve an amazing crispy exterior that persists even when they are no longer piping hot – though, to be fair, we didn’t leave them sitting for long.

I am thoroughly impressed by the Chicken Tikka Tacos – tender Bahraini tikka meat served in mini taco shells that look almost too cute to eat. Packed with lettuce and diced tomatoes and with a fragrant mint chutney dressing, they are salty and savoury and send my taste buds into a delighted happy dance.

Finally for the last of the savouries, we try Madrooba Risotto, a creamy risotto with a twist of spicy chicken madrooba. The use of the risotto rice with the traditional madrooba spices has made this a popular returning dish and the addition of parmesan shavings, once again, adds an international flavour to this classic Bahraini fare.

To accompany our food, we try a selection of seasonal drinks – the classic lemon and mint is, as expected, thoroughly refreshing; a creamy avocado concoction with cucumber, mango and pineapple, is almost a meal in a glass; and, my favourite is the hibiscus iced tea which is slightly sweet and totally thirst-quenching.

For dessert, we are served, somewhat to my trepidation, Date Cheesecake. Now, I will confess that I’m thinking this shouldn’t work. But, to my delight, it absolutely does. Dates are mixed with the cheese to achieve an almost caramel-like flavour, the biscuit base is crunchy perfection and the pistachio and date garnish renders this a thing of great beauty. A sprig of tart redcurrants offers the ideal, slightly sour foil to the rich sweetness of the cake. Heavenly.

Finally, we sample the amazing Ramadan Dates Box. If you’re thinking of gifts in this special season, you definitely won’t go wrong with this. Beautifully presented, it contains a selection featuring Snickers dates – yes they really do taste like the popular chocolate bar – alongside dates stuffed and coated in fabulous combinations such as nut praline and candied walnut; Lotus cream and biscuit; dark Valrhona chocolate and Sash ganache; and white chocolate with pistachio and apricot. You’ll certainly be invited back if you bring these as a hostess gift.

For me, Sash is a recent discovery but I am so impressed with the thought that has gone into everything on this Ramadan menu making sure the offering is traditional but, at the same time, brings unexpected, flavourful twists to keep your taste buds guessing. I shall certainly be back, both during Ramadan and long after.

All of these fabulous items and more are available to eat in or take away during Ramadan. ✤

GO: CALL 1789 9991 FOR FURTHER INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.