Go Bistro by La Table Krug is the slightly bigger, definitely bolder version of The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain’s bijou restaurant. Liz O’Reilly heads to the property’s latest pop-up to find out what it’s all about.

Inside the hotel, La Table Krug seats up to 16 guests and is available for private bookings. So, to make its gorgeous European-style menu more widely available, Go Bistro was born and I am excited to learn more.

Found at the Nikmati location, gone are the Perspex sheets, which allowed a view of the beach, to be replaced by deep sage walls adorned with decorative moulding boasting artistic flourishes. Numerous pictures, some arty, some amusing, evoke the atmosphere of an old-fashioned Paris bistro and hardwood flooring scattered with thick rugs adds to the sense of luxury. Gentle music plays in the background and crystal lamps illuminate the tables. The seating is velvet covered and comfortable, inviting us to settle in and relax, a suggestion for which we need no second bidding.

First to arrive at the table, alongside a basket of crunchy bread hot from the kitchen, is a pretty and oh-so flavoursome amuse bouche. A small, perfect sphere of mashed avocado topped with milk skim (the froth from boiling milk) and Beluga caviar and a crisp, earthy squid ink tuile. The caviar adds a certain je ne sais quoi and I am very happy for an excuse to tuck into the delicious bread. Our starters are two of the restaurant’s signature dishes. White asparagus with a delicious, creamy Hollandaise sauce and salmon tartare.

The fat, juicy asparagus – a personal favourite – is cooked to a perfect sweet state, its earthy goodness tempered by the creamy decadence of the sauce. Topped with fried capers and croutons, this is a typically French appetiser that perfectly whets the appetite for what’s to come.

The salmon tartare sits on a bed of creamy avocado and is topped with perfect pearls of salmon roe – I love the delicious pop as they burst on your tongue. The high-quality, Scottish salmon weaves a tale of distant, mist-shrouded lochs while a citrussy dill dressing makes the flavour dance and I keep going back for more.

The classic bistro dish of Steak-Frites is, in my opinion, possibly one of the world’s greatest creations, so I am delighted to see a 250g Wagyu ribeye with Béarnaise sauce and French fries heading my way. The meat is beautifully marbled and, cooked medium-rare, literally melts in the mouth, the abundant juices rendering the flesh buttery and an absolute delight. Here I must confess that, much as I enjoy Béarnaise and know that connoisseurs consider it the perfect accompaniment to this dish, such is the quality of the steak that I forego the embellishment and just revel in the meaty flavour and texture.

We also try the Supreme de Poulet au Foie Gras – chicken supreme with duck liver and mushroom tartine served with potato purée and Albufera sauce. The mixed mushrooms lend the dish an air of the forest and the gorgeously creamy sauce accentuates the fatty richness of the pâté and the succulence of the chicken.

Risotto Aux Champignons – arborio risotto, field mushrooms, truffle scent and mascarpone cheese – is, for me, the star dish of the evening. The rice is perfectly rendered – al dente and fluffy but at the same time creamy and, with the delicate mascarpone tang, almost like a thick, comforting broth. The delightful scent of the truffles reaches my nose before I even see the dish, causing my taste buds to perk up in anticipation. This dish is true decadence and comfort food at the same time and would certainly be my Go Bistro ‘go to’.

With the table cleared, we sit a while to let our food settle and take in our surroundings with the signature mocktail, the Bistronomic – a tangy and refreshing combination of orange, grapefruit and caramel syrup that I would happily recommend if you decide not to indulge in the venue’s sparkling namesake. I wander outside to enjoy the perfect evening view of the beach, the waves gently rushing up onto the soft white sand, before heading back inside to see what the dessert menu holds.

No meal is complete without a sweet ending and Go Bistro has a selection of classics as well as an impressive cheese board. The crème brûlée with its telltale black flecks of fresh vanilla pods is delicious, its burnt sugar top emitting that satisfying crack as I smash my way through to the custardy goodness beneath. A liberal garnish of almond pistachio biscotti and fruits, including big, juicy blackberries, renders the dish extra special and myself and my dining companion are ready to do battle for the last spoonful. And the chocolate mousse – oh the chocolate mousse! At 70% it is so rich, so flavourful, so absolutely decadently delicious, made all the more impressive by the addition of sweet raspberries and strawberries and a super-crunchy, nutty biscuit. Who could resist? Not me, that’s for sure.

If you’re looking for a treat, and make no mistake Go Bistro by La Table Krug is definitely that, then this is the place for classic cuisine in a beautiful setting and what’s even better, the prices are really reasonable.✤

GO: CALL 1758 6499 OR EMAIL RC.BAHRZ.RESTAURANT.RESERVATIONS@RITZCARLTON.COM OR FOLLOW @LTKBAH ON INSTAGRAM FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.