While our weather may still be scorching, the fashion world is readying for the cooler months and Brunello Cucinelli presents a collection that will take you through the season in style.
For women, the Autumn-Winter 2023 collection is based on the clean lines, pure colours and compact fabrics that emerged in the 1990s. Neat and seductive arrangements bring to mind the British manor house with high-quality, handcrafted tactile effects, extremely soft, fleecy surfaces and a countryside feeling.
There is an air of academic charm with regimental stripes and sartorial micro patterns, pleated miniskirts, tennis-style V-necks, ties, baseball caps and socks worn with loafers and heels. Demicropped sweaters and boxy jackets alternate with versatile and cosy coats with prestigious details such as knitted inserts, outdoor-style collars or soft shearling linings. Short Spencer jackets and puffy bombers are paired with midi skirts and relaxed trousers, spreading an idea of effortless tailoring that is contemporary and fun to wear.
Winter whites and beiges evoke a sense of luxury and serenity. Blue, with its magnetic character and noble ancestry, adds a sophisticated variation to the base tones.
Matching sets with straight lines and monochrome or tone-on-tone effects come to life with compact fabrics, twisted wool yarns and mirrored surfaces. In contrast, bouclé, mottled and brushed effects, quilted fabrics, airy mohair, alpaca yak fibres, super-soft shearlings and fleecy materials evoke the dynamic and natural spirit of the countryside. Traditional patterns and details balance femininity and freshness with subtly flared or pencil skirts, shimmering textures and smooth, flowing surfaces. For the evening, traditional men’s tailoring fabrics, enriched with precious embroidery, are glamorously interpreted to create new tuxedos. The slip dress trend of the nineties is back for the most high-profile occasions. Dresses and skirts in satin, lamé and sparkling three-dimensional embroidery take centre stage.
The men’s collection is based on the evolution of timeless classics. Every look is characterised by a key garment that is its focal point, expressing the overall style but, at the same time, defining the harmony of combinations. A tailored cashmere coat, a special hand-knit sweater or a suit made of a precious fabric can constitute this focus of attention, which is then balanced in a contemporary way by overlays, trousers and accessories.
Colours take on intense hues, inspired by historic grape blends that have stood the test of time, transcending trends. Shades of red – barbera, maroon and burgundy – are presented in a grayish version to convey, in a palpable way, the passing of time, a long ageing process that enhances the finest and most subtle nuances. The overall harmony is created by precious tones of beige moving from medium camel and sand to light Panama and ecru, accompanied by fascinating shades of noble deep blue and modern light blue. Urban hues of grey complement the backdrop. The suit confirms its role as the cornerstone of the collection while the knitwear selection has been expanded with noble fibres such as virgin wool, silk and alpaca. And elegant styles dedicated to evening and gala events recreate the fusion of glamour and charisma iconic to 1950s’ and 1960s’ Hollywood. ✤
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