From chef’s special dishes to classic favourites, Liz O’Reilly enjoyed a veritable carnival of flavours on a visit to Royal Thai restaurant.

Walking in through The Gulf Hotel Bahrain Convention & Spa during the final days of the Eid holiday, the place felt welcoming and buzzing as we headed to the grand pagoda housing Royal Thai in the property’s gorgeous tropical gardens overlooking the bright blue waters of the pool and the pretty koi pond.

Inside we were greeted by Thai mask heads and soaring wooden ceilings with recessed lighting for an intimate atmosphere, even in this large space. Wall tapestries featuring Thai figures in dance poses added to the authenticity of this exotic setting with its classic Asian décor.

We chose to sit on the outside terrace and our server Bella quickly brought prawn crackers with sweet chilli sauce and hot mint sauce – a first for me with an interesting sparky heat – as Chef Kate came to greet us and suggested we try some of her speciality dishes. An amuse-bouche of grilled prawn in a slightly sweet sauce topped with crisp vermicelli was almost too pretty to eat. But, we tucked in and from the first mouthful of the succulent, sweet shrimp, we knew we were in for a treat.

We began our feast proper with the Royal Platter for two – a dish that’s certainly fit for a king or queen. Chicken satay and Angus beef skewers were delightfully tender and perfectly offset by the peanut and tamarind dipping sauces – the beef was something of a revelation as this dish is more usually served solely with chicken; huge Arabian prawns, their firm inners encased in a subtly crisp coating emphasised the restaurant’s reputation for the excellence of its seafood; and the stuffed crab was the star of this plate. A noodle-crumbed crunchy coating yielding to reveal a generous serving of salty-sweet crab meat offset with tiny slivers of spring onion for an added piquancy.

Chef Kate’s special recipe took the crispy spring rolls to another level. The herby minced veggie filling wrapped in a deliciously crisp, deep fried pastry coating with a plum sauce dip demanded our attention as we tried to distinguish the separate elements of an intriguing and moreish flavour experience.

The hot and sour Tom Yum soup is a personal favourite and I was not disappointed. Arriving at the table in steaming individual lidded pots, it was deliciously flavourful without being overly spicy and the liberal serving of big, juicy prawns made it extra special – I honestly believe I could eat this every day without getting bored. During a short break to relax and take in the glorious weather and the families enjoying the pool, the lovely Bella brought us warm towels to freshen up – a regular and truly thoughtful occurrence throughout our visit – and explained our soon-to-arrive main courses We started off with Phad Thai and I was quite surprised at how tasty and mild this usually spicy noodle dish was. It was served with small bowls of crushed chillis, crunchy peanuts and limes – so we could add our own chosen level of heat. Liberally coated with a sauce in which you can just pick out the subtle nuances of tamarind, shrimp and garlic paired with the sweetness of palm sugar, the chunky noodles, crisp veggies, more large, fluffy prawns and firm well-seasoned tofu make for comfort food extraordinaire and I was quite sad to limit myself to just a small serving to save space for the coming dishes.

Chef Kate had recommended Massaman Kra Kaea – a surprising dish since it is served with lamb shank instead of the usual beef. Beautifully presented, the meat was literally falling off the bone and the curry gravy, with its Thai and Indian influences was deeply rich and flavoursome. Containing potatoes and roasted peanuts, which add an extra layer of richness to the texture and flavour, it was beautifully presented and rightly one of the chef’s star dishes. The show stealer for both myself and my companion, however, was the wok-fried hammour which came with an abundant serving of crunchy red and yellow peppers and pea eggplants in a delicious sauce that was both sweet and savoury with Thai herbs and the slight but well-controlled heat of red chilli. The seeds from the mildly sour pea eggplants added an interesting texture but the winners, for me, were the peppers and a really interesting topping of crispy fried, slightly spicy basil. Simply fabulous!

We thought we couldn’t eat any more but were persuaded to share the speciality Mango Sticky Rice – a perfectly cubed, delightfully sweet mango doused in mango syrup accompanied by a sphere of sweet, gooey coconut rice topped with tiny daubs of moong dal, which added a delicious crunch. Served on a plate with an orchid flower and sprigs of fresh mint, which added a delightfully fresh tang to the sweet rice, we had each promised ourselves just a spoonful. But, needless to say, it disappeared within minutes.

Totally replete, we could not have asked for a better way to round off the Eid holiday and we’re looking forward to a return visit at the end of the month when celebrity Chef Hong Thaimee is in town, from May 30 to June 3, showcasing her signature culinary skills at the restaurant and conducting a special cooking class. ✤

GO: CALL 1771 3000 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.