Liz O’Reilly experienced an authentic taste of Spain on a visit to Salero at The Westin City Centre Bahrain.

From the surroundings at Salero, you’d never guess you’re literally minutes from Bahrain’s largest retail mall. The lighting is subdued but the space is still bright thanks to ebullient murals adoring the walls in a riot of colour. At the entrance, the familiar mosaic bull, which has welcomed visitors since the venue opened, has been replaced with giant blue abstract-style bull’s head wall paintings – I’m rather taken with the new arrivals.

Inside, the seating is comfortable, the staff welcoming and knowledgeable and, as always, I am entranced by the open kitchen where Chef Ruben Torres labours to prepare the feast to come. It’s worth noting that Salero is a tapas bodega, so it’s customary to order a selection of small dishes – perfect for tasting and getting to know this intriguing cuisine.

To start we are served warm toasted bread, perfectly nutty and crunchy with finely chopped tomatoes and roasted garlic. Yes, I know bread on the table is customary but these thoughtful accompaniments add a touch of rustic flair that heralds an evening of traditional Spanish hospitality that’s second to none.

To start, I choose Gazpacho de Tomate Andalûz – chilled tomato soup served with little pots of cucumber, onion and pepper. To say this is creamy would be a vast understatement. Chef Ruben later tells us that for each 2kg of vegetables, he uses 400ml of olive oil, so there’s no surprise that it’s super rich and thoroughly satisfying.

My dining companion goes for Ensalada Ronda con queso de cabra – a goat cheese salad teeming with fruit, nuts, honey and sherry vinaigrette. The fruits offer a zesty contrast to the caramelised cheese and the sweetness of the honey while the greens are superbly fresh providing another crunchy, textural layer to a dish that is already rich in contrasts.

For me, no visit to a Spanish restaurant would be complete without Patatas Bravas – traditional fried potatoes with spicy, sweet paprika sauce and aioli. The Salero version arrives sizzling hot and invitingly bright with a fragrant, peppery aroma. We tuck in and the starchy root is every bit as good as I hoped, a glorious marriage of yielding pulpy potato with high-quality olive oil layered with the delicate heat of the spice and the buttery aftertaste of garlic.

Soon comes the dish I have been waiting for – Berenjenas a la Miel de Caña. Now, I must confess, I am slightly addicted to aubergine [eggplant], so, if it’s on the menu, it’s definitely going to be on my plate. Fried eggplant slices in super crunchy batter sprinkled with cane honey, it definitely does not disappoint and both of us fall silent in what can only be described as reverent consumption. The combination of textures is a surefire winner. The batter truly crispy, so much so that there is an audible crunch as I bite down, yielding to the soft velveteen eggplant all perfectly offset by the sweetness of the honey. Our server tells us this is not one of Salero’s most popular dishes. All I can say is try it, you will be a convert!

Choco Frito a la Mediterránea – fried cuttlefish with lemon and mint aioli – is another triumph. The meat is tender, with not the slightest hint of toughness so common in this dish. And, though trying to save space, both I and my dining companion keep dipping in, thanks in part to the delicious homemade lemon and mint sauce that perfectly draws out the subtle creaminess of the mollusc.

My friend’s sautéed chicken with garlic olive oil, lemon and roast potatoes is so good that I’m in serious danger of getting my hand slapped as I home in for a taste – all in the interests of necessary research, of course. Super tender with the infusion of the garlic and lemon, it literally melts on the tongue. Simply sublime.

And my Gambas al pilpil Andaluz is equally impressive. Sauteed shrimps Andalusian stye with spicy Spanish paprika and garlic. Perfectly cooked and wonderfully fresh, the seafood is drenched in warm olive oil, the firm flesh absorbing the spicy, peppery goodness of the paprika for a deeply satisfying mouth sensation that sets my taste buds dancing.

We are almost done but Chef Ruben, who’s come to chat explaining the culinary intricacies of his Spanish homeland, recommends two ‘must try’ desserts. And who are we to refuse? Our favourite is the Arroz con Leche Español del Sigio XXI which basically translates as 21st century rice pudding but with some seriously delicious twists. There is the expected cinnamon and it is deliciously creamy but there the resemblance to traditional rice pudding ends. With a subtle hint of citrus and a burnt sugar glaze, similar to that found atop crème brûlée, there is a satisfying crack to access the delicious, gooey creaminess beneath. And, to add a fun element, the base of the dish is stacked with puffed rice, adding a textural surprise and a slight earthiness. OK, I’m sold.

Throughout the evening, a Spanish guitarist plays alongside a traditional Flamenco dancer and their performance is an unexpected treat that elevates our whole experience to the next level, leaving us slightly in awe at the range of talent just waiting to be discovered on our little island. ✤

GO: CALL 1717 1300 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.