TASTES OF THE OCEAN

Liz O’Reilly headed to The Crowne Plaza Bahrain’s much-loved Seafood Night for a fishy feast second to none.

The Crowne Plaza used to be a regular haunt in my pre-Covid, party-girl days but it’s been a while since I’ve visited so I was interested to see what’s changed and what’s remained the same.

Arriving at the reception on an early Thursday evening, the place was busy with lots of people coming and going as we made our way to La Mosaique, the name of the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant spelled out above the door in colourful, art-deco-style stained glass..

Inside, pale golden wood, comfy seating and a capacious island food counter bearing more of that gorgeous stained glass set the scene for a seafood feast in bistro-style surroundings. I’m a big fan of seafood and could see I was going to be spoiled for choice from the sheer number of options available, so I made sure to take a really good look before making my selections.

The salad section was abundant with Tuna Niçoise – the sunny egg yolks forming a smiling contrast to the shiny green beans; red peppers, cucumbers and baby leaves mixed with herb-scattered chunks of white fish; bright pink tuna sitting on a bed of mango salsa; and squid rings tossed in with green peppers, tomatoes and onions. The aquatic items sat alongside a range of regular salad staples such as feta and watermelon – one of my all-time favourites (try it liberally doused in wasabi, it’s lush) – spiced chick-peas, a big bowl of mixed citrus segments and lots of chopped crudités, perfect to accompany the many dips and sauces on offer.

On the other side of the counter, I was delighted to find a row of gleaming silver chafing dishes which opened to reveal all manner of oceanic goodness. The Calamari in Back Pepper Sauce looked and smelled amazing but the Seafood Thermidor was calling my name – loudly – so I served myself a bowlful of the rich, creamy, concoction. Lightly cheesy and so mellow with voluptuous chunks of shrimp and fish, I was in heaven just breathing in the mouth-watering aroma, which delivered with a deeply satisfying flavour.

My dining companion, after sampling the tuna and mango salsa – which she declared sweet and refreshing – went for the seafood with corn in a Cajun spicy sauce. It’s said that flavour is a combination of taste and smell, and this was one dish that fully demonstrated the statement. A mix of spices gave rise to a rich aromatic steam, the generous pieces of seafood bathed in a fragrant gravy with a considered bite of heat. Delicious.

Next, we moved on to the fresh fish counter taking the opportunity to chat with the chefs before making our selection. From needle fish and sherri to crabs and prawns, all were fresh and clean and we were spoiled for choice.

Newly appointed Executive Chef Carlo Cirone is a master of his art who is well known as a veteran of the island’s culinary scene. And he and his team were happy to guide us in our selections.

I chose red mullet and, a new find for me, andak – a native Gulf fish that I have not come across before. I was tempted to request a fancy cooking method but decided on simple flame grilling with just a touch of seasoning and my choice was good. The fish were perfect – the skins, which I would not usually eat, lightly salty and crispy, the mullet soft and juicy and the andak firm but still tender. Here, I must confess, that I am a slightly lazy diner and I found them a bit bony so, next time, I will ask for them to be filleted. But the bones were worth it for the reward of the tasty fishy feast.

And now to the pièce de resistance! My friend chose the cigale – slipper lobster tails from Oman – served in the traditional French thermidor style. Herby, rich with heavy cream and cheese and the delicious, piquant tang of English mustard smothering the gently yielding, sweet lobster meat. We discovered we had saved the best for last and, though almost replete, we managed to polish the plate clean between us and vowed to return for another serving – not to mention a trip to the well-stocked sushi section and a chance to try the intriguing salmon shawarma – the only place on the island you will find it.

Not wanting to leave you without a taste of dessert, we took a short break on the outdoor terrace enjoying the balmy weather before heading to the extensive sweet counter. From eclairs bursting with cream to cappuccino cake, cute little pots of panna cotta, the traditional Umm Ali and even a large platter of fresh fruit, there was something to suit every palate.

I went for the orange slice – a super-moist sponge cake bursting with citrus flavour and topped with a sweet date for balance. My dining companion chose chocolate mousse cake and found it rich and satisfying.

If you want to tuck into unlimited seafood, check out this extravaganza which runs at La Mosaique every Thursday from 7pm to 11pm. Or head down on Wednesdays when you’ll discover a real treat for meat lovers with Carnivore Night where you’ll find all manner of meats cooked to your liking.

The atmosphere is chilled and the welcome warm, so what are you waiting for? ✤

GO: CALL 1753 1122 OR 3722 3366 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.