Communal meals are at the heart of Lebanese gastronomy, learns Melissa Nazareth who enjoys a truly Levantine-Mediterranean experience at the newly renovated Zahle, at The Gulf Hotel Bahrain.

As I enter, I’m pleasantly surprised to see that the restaurant’s interior has been redone. A wash of blue and white sweeps over my senses, instantly putting me in the mood for authentic Lebanese dining. The tiled floor and upholstery are marked with Mediterranean motifs, which stand out beautifully in an otherwise plain space. The walls are fixed with canvas arches that light up from within, barring one side, which is fitted with mirrors, making the space look bigger. I particularly like the shelves displaying earthenware, which offers a rustic touch to the décor. While Zahle is simply designed, it has a certain elegance, befitting a dining outlet at The Gulf Hotel Bahrain.

There’s a stage at the back end of the restaurant. In the evenings, it’s graced by a one-man show, a female singer and a DJ, offering the perfect backdrop to an evening of sharing – food, conversation and a good time. I settle in with my companions and soon the food starts to arrive. We’re served the extensive set menu.

First come the appetisers or mezze. While I’ve tasted most of the dishes before, I’m excited to try two that are new to me. First, chicken liver sautéed with sticky-sour pomegranate molasses, garlic and Zahle’s signature spices. The pâté-like texture of the liver has a certain richness, sliced through by the sharpness of the sauce. Our Lebanese companion recommends we dip the thick-cut potato fries in the sauce. The hot chips soak in the liver-infused juices and we’re blown away by a burst of flavours in our mouth. Then Adas bel Roman, a homogenous mixture of brown lentils, freekeh, or green durum wheat, mustard, pomegranate seeds and molasses, with a consistency similar to baba ganoush – which we also eat – only more robust. It offers a balance of savoury, sweet and earthy flavours. Our hot mezze also includes staples such as Chilli Potato. Cubed, fried potatoes infused with chilli, garlic, lemon and coriander; Mixed Puffs featuring kibbeh – a minced meat and cracked wheat croquette; cheese sambousek, cheese stuffed dough that’s deep-fried, and spring rolls.

The cold mezze includes hummus, a dip made using ground chickpeas, garlic, tahini and olive oil. This humble dish, ubiquitous across Middle Eastern cuisine, is packed with a subtle, garlicky flavour. It has a slightly grainy, creamy texture. Moutabel is an aubergine dip, which has a smoked flavour rendered by oven roasted eggplants mixed with lemon juice, tahini and garlic. Both are eaten with warm pita bread, which, against the cold dips, offers a tantalising contrast, further whetting our appetite. Our bread basket also comes with bread sticks. The Vine Leaves are stuffed with rice, tomato, parsley, onion, olive oil and lemon juice. Tart and juicy, they complement the other dishes on our table.

Salads include fattoush made using heirloom cherry tomatoes, green bell pepper and rocket leaves, giving this rustic Levantine salad a contemporary touch. The flavours, however, are authentic. The crunchy vegetables refresh the palate as does the piquant dressing. Tabouleh is a parsley and bulgur wheat dish, which has an herby taste and is equally refreshing.

The main course is a mixed grill platter of lamb kebabs and chicken and beef tikka. They’re served the traditional way with roasted tomatoes, chillies and onions. All the meat is cooked to perfection while retaining its juicy and tender qualities. I’d like to give the chicken a special mention. I start cutting it using a certain amount of force based on the texture that I anticipate but it falls apart so easily that I’m mildly shocked. I ask our hosts if it is fish – not exaggerating here – but they confirm it is chicken and, just like that, it is the best chicken tikka I’ve ever eaten in my life. Every bite is sealed with meaty goodness, which is further enhanced by the roasted accompaniments and tangy, salty pickles. We make a pitstop at the mezze and salads from time to time during our main course.

We end with a decadent cheesecake topped with orange blossom flower jam. The Ashta, or clotted cream, adds a local touch to this delicately flavoured dessert. There’s a fruit platter too.

A Lebanese meal offers so much variety that it’s hard to finish without finding something you like. Moreover, it’s the family-style dining that makes the experience that much more enjoyable. For those who don’t know, Zahlé is one of the attractive cities in Lebanon, known for its poetry, pleasant climate, riverside restaurants and more. Safe to say, we enjoyed the spirit of this place at its namesake. ✤

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