Always on a quest for new Lebanese restaurants to try, FACT’s Rachel Nafeh heads to Mandoleen for a meal – and discovers so much more.

What is it about Lebanese food that keeps us coming back for more?

Think about it. Bahrain’s dining scene has evolved to boast upscale steakhouses, ubercontemporary Indian restaurants, countless pizza joints, killer Nikkei cuisine, and more food trucks than we can keep track of. Yet we turn to Lebanese eateries time and time again. And on the agenda this month? Mandoleen. The lounge-restaurant hybrid located in Adliya may not have been around for very long – it opened its doors during the tail end of August – but is winning rave reviews already. And it’s easy to see why.

At a time when Bahrain residents are starved for more than just great food, it opens at 12pm, with daily live entertainment perking them right up. Head to Mandoleen in the evening, and you’ll see crowds of people cheerfully singing along with the performers on stage, clearly nostalgic for a more carefree time. But we digress. We’re here to sample the authentic Lebanese dishes we’ve heard so much about, and considering Mandoleen hails from Beirut, the bar is set pretty high. But first we reflect on its understated, creamy white interiors. The fuss-free décor feels like a cosy living room, almost like teta is getting ready to force-feed us into oblivion. We spot the usual suspects on the menu, delighted by the absence of any culinary pretentiousness.

There’s a vast amount of hot mezza options to choose from – and even more cold – so we quickly pile our table up with the tangy Tabouleh, smoky Mutabal, creamy Labneh Baladiyeh, and rice-stuffed Vine Leaves – and we’re just getting started.

We’ve obviously tried these dishes at several other restaurants, but we love how homely their essence is. Also capturing the heart and soul of Lebanese cuisine are the hot appetisers we can’t help but order, so we now vouch for the Fried Meat Kebbe (stuffed with perfectly spiced minced meat), Maqaneq (the pomegranate molasses keeps the sausages interesting), and Spinach Fatayer (that pairs fresh spinach with onions and tomatoes).

A close second: the Potato Harra Provencal. But is a meal at a Lebanese restaurant even complete without this herby, carb-loaded starter? We just about wipe our plates clean with the freshly baked bread that comes straight from the oven to us. And speaking of which, be sure to give the manakish a try if you manage to make space for it. The signature ‘Thyme Mandoleen’ is a winner.

Onto the mains, where the charcoal grill reigns supreme. The Mandoleen Grills – another signature – is the one we opt for as it brings together a selection of kofta, shish tawook, kabab orfali, kabab eggplant, and lamb chops, making it a real crowd-pleaser (and ideal for a group of people with varying dietary preferences). It’s the quintessential mixed grill, accenting tender meats with a beautifully potent garlic dip. The rather aptly named Chicken with Potato in Oven is one of the menu’s more “special” dishes, as Mandoleen calls it, and feels like a Lebanese take on a Sunday roast – except we’d order this comforting combination any day of the week.

Prefer red meat over white? The Kebeh Bel Laban comprises kibbeh cooked in yoghurt, and is easily one of the best mains at Mandoleen. Garlicky yoghurt pairs well with most savoury dishes from this part of the world, so why should kibbeh be any different? Here, it’s served with an aromatic vermicelli rice, as tradition dictates. It’s at this point in the evening when our appetites are slowly giving up on us, but we can’t fathom walking out without giving the legendary Kounafa a try. Not only is it classically prepared (thankfully, there’s no Nutella nor corn flakes in sight), but it also transports us to Lebanon in a heartbeat. As we tap our feet to the beat of the tabla – and vow to stop after this bite of dessert – we temporarily forget just how far Beirut feels amidst this complicated year. ✤

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