Indulgence with a Difference

Bahrain’s dining scene is constantly evolving, yet few contenders can compete with the overall appeal of Oliveto. Here, we return to the trendy Italian restaurant to reveal why.

If Oliveto changed its name to Rave Reviews, we wouldn’t notice – the two practically feel synonymous at this point. The famed Italian restaurant is rooted in authenticity, so don’t expect to find the likes of fettuccine alfredo and chicken parmesan on the menu. Instead, you’ll be greeted by dishes that are deceivingly simple, each elevated by the quality of the ingredients used. After all, the Italian woman behind the wonder is Rossella Tafuno, her family recipes in tow. Incidentally, she comes from a long line of experts in the F&B industry – read: high standards. We make our way down the menu, starting with a kale salad accented with sweet figs, toasted hazelnuts, and goat cheese, then drizzled with a molasses vinaigrette – a combination we vow to recreate at home.

It’s that good. Next up is the Tuna Steak, a moist and tender appetiser brimming with flavours of lemon, chili, and coriander. Admittedly, we’re a little surprised to see it topped with black sesame seeds, but they add an almost Asian twist to the dish. If the humidity that marks the end of summer in Bahrain calls for one dish, it’s this. Naturally, a meal at an Italian restaurant wouldn’t be complete without at least one pasta dish on the table, so we select the Pasta Al Ragù Bianco Di Pesce. But this is no ordinary pasta dish. For starters, it’s centred around Pasta di Gragnano, arguably one of the best pasta types on the planet. This is because, as our research reveals, the Italian hilltop town of Gragnano is the birthplace of dried pasta – and continues to be famous for it. Oliveto pairs the pasta with flaked seabass in a light ragout sauce with kalamata olives and cherry tomatoes. It’s the type of sauce that will have you reaching for the bread basket more than you’d care to admit.

The dish also paves the way nicely for our second main: Sole Fish Alla Mugnaia. For the initiated, sole features heavily in Mediterranean cuisine, making it a natural fit on the menu. Here, it’s infused with a touch of nostalgia, reminiscent of how the typical Italian grandmother would prepare it. The fish is lightly panseared in a dressing of lemon, extra-virgin olive oil, calamarata olives, and capers from the Sicilian island of Pantelleria, and served with a side of baked baby potatoes. But regardless of what you end up ordering, give the refreshing Sgroppinos – essentially lemon sorbet in a champagne flute – a try. This frothy palate cleanser hails from Venice and is available in both mocktail and cocktail form at Oliveto. Warning: regular lemonade will just not cut it after you’ve tried one of these. We’d be remiss not to acknowledge the setting, so let’s talk interiors. By now, any Bahrainbased foodie worth their salt knows that Oliveto is where you go when you want to impress – and be impressed for the umpteenth time. The restaurant is tucked away in a quieter part of Adliya, occupying a plot size that spans a whopping 3,300 square metres, whetting your appetite as you enter the premises and take in your sleek, contemporary surroundings.

Once inside, the Dining Room offers a relaxed yet refined approach to dining. . Between the spacious interior, high ceilings, rich pops of colour, and objets d’art on display, it’s an ideal choice if you’re hosting in a big group – in fact, we’re told the Dining Room comfortably seats up to 120 guests at a time. Just outside is The Deck, which alone seats up to 60 people. The crown jewel, however, has to be the outdoor area, which promises to remain packed come cooler temperatures. And we’ll truly never tire of this al fresco spot. Here, olive trees gaze at their reflection in a central water feature, while booth seating makes for more intimate dining with friends. It’s no surprise that the Oliveto terrace has hosted engagement parties and weddings in the past. Can’t say that about your usual Italian haunt, can you? ✤